You know…Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare is a three-Michelin-starred, 18-seat restaurant appendixed to a supermarket. You know, chef Cesar Ramirez is Mexican but inspired by the Japanese impeccability.The chef’s table concept is developed from a sushi bar. But, chef Ramirez is a man with great toys – an impeccably modern kitchen centrepiece, an overwhelming collection of “bling” pots and pans, a world-exclusive selection of finest and most uniquely designed porcelain. Chef Ramirez flies in the best fish and shellfish from all over the world to his restaurant. There is no menu here. Just around 20 dishes. You know chef Ramirez specialises in fish and shellfish. His approach is both inspired and firmly grounded in Japanese ethos. No allergy is catered for. If you can’t eat fish, you go somewhere else, he says. And I agree, wholeheartedly.

What you may not know is that to dine at Brooklyn Fare you have to call precisely on Monday at 10.30am NYC time (or keep your phone on redial a few minutes before) 6 weeks in advance. You also may be in need of more than one phone to dial at the same time (I used three). You need to pay for the whole meal one week before your designated dining appointment. $250 per person (I think?). You will receive an email detailing the BF etiquette – a “business attire” dress code, no note-taking, no photography. You must be there on time, or else you will miss whatever that should have been served before you arrive. If you can handle this, go ahead..

Despite all that military rigidity, Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare was a thoroughly relaxed place to be and the meal a life-changing experience. The kitchen brigade led by zen-like-yet-gangster-like Ramirez was the most systematised. This was a foil to Michelle the most personable sommelier who brought joy to this reverent surrounding.

The cooking was not only highly innovative but a very candid showcase of world’s best ingredients. A shot of warm, liquidised squash toppled with yogurt foam got me into the mood. A pristine slice of raw red snapper arrived with tangy ponzu sauce and holy-crispy red snapper scales. A slice of white fish was served with pickled daikon and threads of ginger; trout with its own roe and mayo; hiramasa with borage; o-toro with crispy shredded leeks. Unctuous sea urchin was prepared two ways, one with yuba skin, soy, wasabi and dill (the most luscious and innovative I’ve ever eaten and the best dish of the evening), the other on a toasted brioche disc with black truffle foliage. There was also smoked caviar with potato. Then came a chawanmushi with truffled dashi and perfectly cooked crayfish. The sweetness from the egg and the crayfish was pure and accentuated by a hint of ginger. A large turbot fillet for 8 guests was pan-fried whole and sliced to form an individual portion with peas, broad beans and pea shoots. The flavour got heavier with red mullet that came with a Thai-influenced bouillabaise. A note of red-curried heat. I moved on to veal ravioli garnished luxuriously with dainty lobster, foie gras, abalone and berry jus. Not at all a show-off dish but a well-balanced luxurious complexity. The texture of the cooked abalone was the most notable, very skillfully tenderised. The main event of non-fish dish featured a roasted squab breast – quite French – with artichoke and scallions. Goat’s cheese and Brie were paired with pear, lettuce and balsamic. Both of the desserts – one with chocolate, tonka bean ice cream and orange; the other sour cream souffle – also hit a high note. And we are left to ponder that chef Ramirez and Brooklyn Fare is nowhere to be seen on the respected World’s 50 Best Restaurants.. something is not right with this “World”..

WE LOVED YOU CESAR!!!! ARGHH!!!!!

(I am sure you wonder.. “no note taking”.. how did I remember all this? Well. I might be making all this up. You will need to go there to find out.. )

GO FOR: Innovative seafood paradise. Meal of a lifetime.
RATING: 5/5

CHEF’S TABLE AT BROOKLYN FARE

200 Schermerhorn St
Brooklyn, NY
11201

Tel. 001 (718) 243 0050

www.brooklynfare.com/chefs-table

There are some photos on BF’s offical Facebook page. There is a confirmed expansion into Manhattan but “Brooklyn Fare” will be the only chef’s table..I heard

MEATmarket – the newborn sibling of London’s famed #Meateasy and MEATliquor – is where one can enjoy a very clatteringly touristy view from the Deck of Jubilee Hall Market (AKA the other market in Covent Garden Piazza that Londoners don’t go to) 7 days a week. There are two entrances – one next to Wagamama on Tavistock Street and the other from within the Jubilee Hall Market (albeit with no sign and accessible only when the market is opened). Bright and airy, this burger place is a pretty “speedy” caff that offers both eat-in and takeaway options. The slightly uncomfortably high chairs/stools ensure a quick turnover, and despite the super friendly staff, I always perch, eat and leave. (I assumed others did the same as during a few “peak” times that I went MEATmarket was nowhere as busy as MEATliquor).

The menu, following the same ethos of naughty burgers as MEATliquor, was brief and divided distinctly between burgers and hotdogs, approximately priced around £7.50. There was barely any booze, apart from the now infamous Jagermeister Shake (£5); soft drinks were served bottomless. I loved Poppaz (£4 for 4 pieces) – double-sized, thumb-shaped croquettes filled with cheese and chopped Jalapenos. Pretty much a mother-f**king of heat, cheese and pickle-y tang. A trip to MEATmarket would not be complete without them. Corn Puppies (£4 for 4 pieces) were juicy miniature sausages coated in chilli-infused cornmeal batter and deep fried. Ideal for those with sweet teeth but still enjoying a whorish hint of heat (moi!). The new bigger stuff did not impress me as much. I found the construction of MEATmarket’s exclusive Black Palace – two patties, caramelised onions, American cheese, ketchup and mustard – nicely done but too sweet for my liking. The inclusive pickles failed to cut through. The Ripper – a hot dog featuring a deep-fried, bacon-wrapped sausage, generously toppled with pickles, chopped raw onions and shredded deep fried onions – appeared uncircumcised and was too big to go comfortably into one’s mouth. The sausage itself was juicy but verged on being too garlic-y and salty (for me); the bun (on two occasions that I visited MM) was dry. That said, the signature MEATliquor staples of The Dead Hippie and The Philli Cheesesteak are still as reliable as usual. Given no queue (so far), MEATmarket could be a great alternative for those seeking the glory of MEATliquor.

RATING: 3.5/5

MEATmarket

The Deck
Jubilee Hall Market
Tavistock Street
London
WC2E 8BE

www.themeatmarket.co.uk

Fitzrovia is becoming a dining hub, with Dabbous‘s gathering a huge crowd and Lima and Bubbledogs’s being set to open in June and July, respectively. You have, in the mean time, a new Chinese “Dragon” on the lesser frequented part of Fitzrovia. Cleveland Street, to be specific. This was a casual Chinese staple, with one of its bare white walls dedicated to a framed review of one famed Maschler. I am certain a Time Out review will find its way up there very soon, too..

The menu was vast and reminiscent of Chilli Cool and Gourmet San. Its good few pages were dominated by fiery Sichaunese and offal dishes. There was also a “Grill” section, featuring chilli chicken wings and “razor claims”, available from 6pm. The price range was kind, and the portion quite generous. While I failed to note the actual price per dish, my meal below (feeding three) with two steamed rice and two beer came to around £75. I enjoyed Aubergine with Chilli in Brown Sauce very much. The flour-ed and deep fried aubergine chunks were quickly sauteed in a rich brown gravy, perfumed with spring onions and green chilli. Piping hot and oozing wonderfully fresh heat. Potato Silk was this cold “salad” dish of finely shredded potatoes tossed in garlic, vinegar and chilli oil. Crunchy and refreshing. Deep Fried Oysters with Salt and Pepper was a properly dirty stuff. The batter boast a very crispy skin. It was still greasy, though not sickeningly so. Pork in Brown Sauce arrived an insanely hock-tastic knuckle to be shredded at the table. Stewed to supreme unctousness, the meat fell apart at a gentle munching. I also went mental after the gelatinous skin which had absorbed the umami richness from the soy sauce and the spices. Duck Blood with Chilli was an ill described dish as it featured, in fact, a medley of offal in a typical spicy and oily Sichaunese stew. While the concoction of pink peppercorns and dried chilli worked nicely to mediate the appetising musty-ness of jellified blood and perfectly chewy tripe, I was begrudged by the poorly rinsed pork intestines, for a bite into those made my breath smell like a constipated fart. I grew up with offal, have no qualm eating penises, and will never mind venturing back to Oriental Dragon for lamb’s tripe and chicken gizzards, but poo-flavoured intestines were a definite no. The kitchen was also a little too curried away with my Singapore Noodle. The service was erratic and one of our orders never made it to the table.

Generally, there is much to like about Oriental Dragon – the hefty portion size, the not-so-MSGed taste, and the value for money. There is also a lot of love if you are turned on by heat, offal and.. oh well… coprophilia!

(Mouthwash please!!)

RATING: 3.5/5

ORIENTAL DRAGON

100 Cleveland Street
London
W1T 6NU

Tel. 020 7387 7878

Koba is a popular, moderately priced and casually pristine Korean restaurant in Fitzrovia. To me, the reason that distinctly sets this little place apart from other Korean hubs – most notably those on St Giles High Street – is not its food but its most effective smoke extracting system. While I usually don’t mind being fumed with meaty fragrance or splashed a little with kimchi stew, a few of my friends do. They will dress down for the “smelly” occasion, even.

The cooking at Koba, with a level of refinement that reflected its sanitary ambiance, remains authentic. Namul (£5.90) was a very decent assortment of crunchy vegetables lightly tossed in sesame oil. Japchae – potato glass noodle stir fried with soy sauce, mushrooms, red peppers, onions and chives – (£6.90) was also pleasant. I liked the elasticity from the noodle but found the dish overall a little over-peppered. Bo Ssam – pork belly slices with ssamjang paste and vegetable wrap – (£9.50) was flawed in its construction. I was not keen on the soy sauce braised pork belly and preferred the simply broiled and sliced version at Po Cha (or anywhere else) for its neutral porky taste; the garnish of lightly pickled cabbage leaves would have been okay by themselves. However, as this was a “ssam” dish (meaning “wrap”) and everything needed to be assembled together for eating, the taste of the pork and the cabbage leaves together with the ssamjang paste became immensely overwhelming. Korean Fried Chicken (£7.50) fared much better. The soy sauce glaze burst umami-ed sweetness; the batter was light and shattered nicely. Also lovable was Ddukboki – Korean rice cake dry-braised with loosened ssamjung paste, fish cakes and quail eggs – (£8.20). The sweet gummy rice cakes balanced the chilli heat off very nicely. As I was last in Koba with non-beef eater friends, I only tried their pork and chicken barbecue. Samgyupsal (£8.70) featured a platter of good quality pork belly slices and tasted accordingly. The same could be said for Daeji Bulgogi – spicy pork belly slices – (£8.90), though its fiery marinate made the dish more memorable. We were unanimous that Dak Bulgogi – spicy chicken – (£8.50) was the best of the barbecue we ordered. We found the chicken thighs succulent and tender. They were also carefully boned for an adequate girth to counter the strong marinate. Dolsot Bibimbab (£7.50) arriving with a soup (as set lunch) did not wow us. I found the rice nearly too wet and the stone bowl not hot enough to create occasional crust on the grains. We were also given another bowl of steamed rice to go with Kimchi Jjigae Lunch Set (£7.20). Surprisingly enough, the same “nearly wet” rice tasted brilliantly on its own (as opposed to being smothered with chilli sauce in a heated stone bowl). The Jjigae – kimchi hot pot – was also a tour de force. It was bouillabaisse-like and rich to the point it became velvety, oozing perfect tang and heat. It was, in short, a thoroughly pleasant meal.

RATING: 4/5

KOBA

11 Rathbone Street
London
W1T 1NA

Tel. 020 7580 8825

Hunan is a family run Chinese restaurant which has occupied a little corner in Chelsea/Pimlico for decades. Chef Peng (the daddy) leads the kitchen and Michael (the son) looks after the FOH and the wine list. Despite its name, Hunan does not serve Hunanese Chinese cuisine but is a purveyor of unique and (at times) inventive Taiwanese cooking. And like eating in a family setting, you have no choice but to eat what the “family” makes. This “no menu” – composed of 16 odd dishes adequately portioned for the whole table to try – is particularly great for those who eat a lot (me) as you (I) can feel free to ask for more within a set price of roughly £30 per person for lunch and £40 (ish) for dinner. The ambiance is that of an elegant neighbourhood restaurant – bustling, relaxed and with better service than your preconception of a Chinese restaurant.

A  marathon meal

At Hunan, there are three things you should bear in mind. First, as I have been a solo diner at Hunan a few times, I strongly advise you find a few lovable (boy)friend(s) to share the meal with. This is simply because a 16-or-more-course meal will make you feel like it has been going on and on and on and on and on and on…just like a marathon of food. Good food. You should also go with an empty stomach (my no.2 point). Last, a long menu can fall into repetitions. Hunan can suffer from that, yet depending on the day and what dishes they decide to give you. Apart from notifying the FOH of your allergies, you may also inform them of your likes and dislikes – spicy, fishy, offal-y, duck-y or lobster-y. They usually do their best to accommodate your needs.

And this is how it went.

Chicken Lettuce Wrap was pleasant and not exaggeratedly seasoned. The coarsely minced chicken was sauteed with chopped carrots, onions, spring onions and garlic. Full of bites, with an umami salty-ness from the soy sauce and a refreshing touch from iceberg lettuce. Pig’s Ears were stuffed with pork paste and served with soy dressing. I liked the crunchy contrast between the soft-bone-like ears and the fine paste. Seaweed Wrapped Tofu was dim-sum-like and served braised in starchy chilli sauce. There was a little indication of heat. The same could be said for fish braised with chilli, ginger and pickled mustard leaves, which stood out for its big tang. Steamed prawn creatively formed a case for this flavoursome spinach “dumpling”. The dish was toppled with a kind of ginger, soy and spring onion sauce. The prawn was nicely cooked and quite springy. Tripe braised in chilli oil was h-a-w-t. The tripe retained some musty taste but soaked up the fragrant and fiery oil + soy sauce concoction very well. Scallops and Cucumber was an okay dish but I found the taste of the scallops washed away by the watery cucumber slices and the potent soy-based sauce. The next was what I believed to be Pumpkin Balls in Chilli Sauce. Despite the fact that I enjoyed it, I could experience only the crispy bean curd skin and the chilli sauce. Frog Legs was a stir fry dish with a delicious entourage of minced chicken, chives and chilli oil. A success. The firm frog meat fell of the bone very nicely; the chive added perfume and crunchy stringy-ness. A success of one did lead to my feeling nonchalant for another – tender beef stripes stir fried with re-hydrated chilli and spring onions. Correctly prepared. The beef tasted like beef (which I find very rare in most Chinese restaurants). It didn’t have as much a wow factor. Beef Shin with Pancake Roll (served cold) was by far a major disappointment as it arrived way too cold. I would describe my experience as eating a stump of hardened flour with chilled hoisin sauce. That said, Crispy Pork Intestines were a revelation. The intestines were expertly marinated and roasted for a perfect crust. They tasted very much like char siu but with a clever enhancement of gummy texture vis-a-vis crispy-ness. It worked brilliantly with a controlled drizzling of sweet hoisin. Crispy Cuttlefish was served with a sweet and (very) spicy chilli syrup (made from fresh and dried chilli). Explosive and crusty. Another success. The chilli aftertaste was extinguished by Stir Fried Lamb with Baby Chinese Celery. The “celery” was very close to asparagus in taste, texture and juicy-ness. The meal concluded with generically good banana fritters with vanilla ice cream. There were, certainly, ups and downs but for the most part of this meal and many others I find Hunan relatively enjoyable. I also like the fact that the food at Hunan barely oozed MSG.

RATING: 3.5/5

HUNAN

51 Pimlico Road
Chelsea
London
SW1W 8NE

Tel. 020 7730 5712

www.hunanlondon.com

Had I but world enough and time, trotting the globe to eat wouldn’t be such a crime. I am a self-confessed World’s 50 Best Restaurants junkie. I find it commendable that the list is streamlined towards unearthing innovations where (occasionally) no ordinary foodie has reached. There is a catch, though. “Innovation” does not always guarantee “satisfaction”, and no “satisfaction” often means a “waste of time”. But, who am I to judge? I am an amateur eater, have made it to only 21 out of 50 of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2012 and some other odd ones that are now off the 2012 list. Also, given the effort chefs and the restaurant teams have put in to make their establishments a success (and the fact that everybody has his/her own preference), it would have been too mean to publish my carefully selected top 10 “waste of time” list. (Personal email exchange is welcomed).

So, I am having this instead – a very personal “Life-Changing 10″ restaurants in an alphabetical order. These places have somehow changed my personal view on cuisine at different points in my life and I have no hesitation to return to these places.

(NB: To understand how my preference works, I’m pro innovation, hate over-complication and I also love food that retains a touch of comfort. I am usually inclined to appreciate subtle and no-fuss flavours).

- AQUA -
Wolfsburg, Germany

Visited: Winter 2011/12
Why: Chef Sven Elverfeld not only refines but redefines what humble German cuisine is to firework effects. In Chef Sven’s hands, “Candy Apple” was made entirely of sugar crust and shattered with a touch of a spoon to reveal ethereal yogurt foam (precisely as sour as a Granny Smith) and caramelised pecan core. The watery essence of apple underneath bound the dish together. My meal at Aqua was full of these brilliantly executed, non-alienating surprises.
On #Worlds50Best: 22
More photos here.

- L’ARPEGE -
Paris, France

Visited: Winter 2010/11 & Winter 2010/11 (Twice)
Why: Not that I don’t love red meat but it is chef Alain Passard’s take on vegetables that is a classical revelation. I still remember my plate of root vegetables with cous cous and argan oil at L’Arpege – the exuberant crunch, the acidity and sweetness from multi-textured root vegetables cooked by various means. This is innovation but this is also firmly grounded in classical French techniques.
On #Worlds50Best: 16

- Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare -
New York City, USA

Visited: Spring 2012
Why: Chef Cesar Ramirez rocks this tiny space, an appendix to Brooklyn Fare supermarket. He not only has fine eyes and unlimited budget to fly in the premium fish in the world but he also has the greatest and most creative mind, with huge respect to Japanese sensitivities, to dazzle 16 odd diners with (arguably) the BEST seafood in the world. I still recall Red Snapper served sliced with rich but cleansing ponzu sauce and toppled with crispy snapper scales or utterly rich and creamy sea urchin with yuba, wasabi and dill. As CTBF runs a no photo policy, I was only naughty enough to snap a shot of chocolate truffles at the end. (Lame, I know).
Not #Worlds50Best (This is unbelievable!!!)

- Faviken -
Jarpen, Sweden

Visited: Winter 2011/12
Why: Youthful and talented, chef Magnus Nilsson makes the most of his adverse environment to create a spectacular “real food” meal, paying respect to the raw beauty of the produce, the ways flavours should naturally be maximised, and the gastronomic timelessness as opposed to flashy and fashionable cooking. Cod “lightly brushed with honey and fried in a dry pan” had the burnt sweet crust that immersed itself with the firm sea-sweet fish. The pairing of carrot cooked in “almost burnt sour milk” and spruce and alcoholic vinegar jelly was striking and effective. Apart from the food, the setting at Faviken – embraced by sleepy mountains and a tranquil lake – is purely magical.
On #Worlds50Best: 34
More photo here.

- Hedone -
London, UK

Visited: 5 times since its opening
Why: My first meal at Hedone was not successful but there was this minimal but otherworldly piece of mackerel (with salad and Japanese dressing) that enticed me back to try more of chef Michael Jonsson’s cooking. This is the place to go for upper-crust produce prepared minimally to enhance its natural flavours. Chef Michael’s approach, I’d describe, is French with a touch of Scandinavia, where he originates, while his best of dishes range from Cevenne Onion with Pear, Scallops with Radish and Squid Ink and Venison with Foie Gras and Chestnut Veloute.
Not #Worlds50Best (I foresee Hedone to be on the list in just a matter of years).
More photo here.

- Mugaritz -
San Sebastian, Spain

Visited: Spring 2011
Why: My overall meal at Mugaritz was deceptively simple and with the unmissable regional Basque influences. “Fake Saffron Rice Just Rested” looked like juicy pumpkin seeds and was served in rich saffron sauce and toppled with white bread crouton. “Nails and Flowers” featured a crystalised sugar cone as translucent as a raincoat, with milky ice cream, chocolate nails and edible flowers. The topicality does not stop the meal to resonate the universality of emotion, and by the end of the meal, the ‘techno-emotional’ cuisine of Andoni Luis Aduriz left me in a nirvana of sort.
On #Worlds50Best: 3 (I was rooting this to be no.2!)
More photos here.

- Nahm -
Bangkok, Thailand + London, UK

Visited: 3 Times in Bangkok, Countless in London since 2008
Why: For a Thai who has grown up and become jaded with Thai food, Chef David Thompson is an inspiration. His delicate touch and stubbornness to the long-standing tradition both preserves and revolutionises Thai cuisine. While meals at Nahm London are, at times, inconsistent and restricted by means of daring audiences, its Bangkokian flagship pushes boundaries to the max. Say, a refined version of Pla Rah Song Kreung (rotten fish) for upper-class urbanites. In London, Nahm is the only restaurant where I can find the rarest of Thai desserts cooked to absolute perfection. Next year 2013 in Singapore it would be interesting to see how Nahm fares on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.
On #Worlds50Best: 50

- Noma -
Copenhagen, Denmark

Visited: Spring 2010 & Autumn 2011
Why: I first went to Noma with zero expectation or knowledge about the restaurant (before #Worlds50Best fame) and the meal ended in subliminal reverence. Chef Rene Redzepi is a nationalist genius and his creations are well matched with taste, imagination and artistry. I don’t think I need to say much else.
On #Worlds50Best: 1
More photos here.

- Pyongyang Hae Dang Hua -
Beijing, China

Visited: 4 times since 2010
Why: This is the ultimate North Korean restaurant of the finest produce and the most impeccably trained kitchen brigade. Pyongyang Hae Dang Hua stands for the opulence of the old world unpolluted by globalisation (one of the very few things that closed countries such as North Korea benefit from). While the kitchen does not intentionally push boundaries, the culture in which we live in and our familiarity with the modern world makes this meal something of a rebellious, retrospective experience. Snapping Turtle was dissected, reassembled and simmered in medicinal ginseng stock, while Dog Meat Hot Pot featured braised roulade of dog’s legs toppled with some ground nuts, spring onions and an infusion of tomato and chilli sauce.
Not #Worlds50Best

- Shinji by Kanesaka -
Singapore, Singapore

Visited: Winter 2011
Why: I have never embarked on a proper gastronomic adventure in Japan and having been on this side of the world (where good Japanese food is scant) I lost interest in such cuisine. Shinji by Kanesaka (praised by my much better eating friend) in Singapore rekindles my faith in prime Japanese produce with premium sushi-making skills to match. I still dream of Oshino-san’s Uni Risotto, which involved a mashing of sea urchin with sushi rice (an estimated 2:1 ratio) until the rice turned creamy and golden and a toppling of chopped tuna belly. The pure, savoury, sea-like custard-y thing passed through my nose and throat at every spoonful – simply the raunchiest bowl of food I’ve ever eaten in my life.
Not #Worlds50Best
More photos here.

I know very little about Helsinki. Say, this capital city of Finland wasn’t founded by the Finnish but by King Gustavus Vasa of Sweden. It fell under the Russian power from the grandiose court of St Petersburg (now a 2-hour-or-so commute by train); one of the good influences was that opera has been popularised in Helsinki ever since. And the massive alabaster cathedral that we see today on tourist postcards was the creation of Johan Albrecht Ehrenström and Carl Ludwig Engel who also rebuilt the whole of Helsinki after a fire in the mid 18th century. But (of course) I didn’t learn of these facts whilst in Finland because I spent nearly three F**KING hours being lost in a park and another two at a restaurant…

Fact. I went to one restaurant during my half-day trip in Helsinki. Fact. I knew the restaurant is a possessor of two Michelin stars and ranked #35 on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2011 (which makes it the best restaurant in Finland). Fact. The restaurant isn’t Finnish but French. It even has a French name of “Chez Dominique”.

And.. FACT.. I liked my meal there very much  ^_^

French via Finland

Chez Dominique by the talented chef-patron Hans Välimäki offers a blind tasting experience to its guests from 3, 4, 6, 9 to the super grand “Menu Dominique” of 25 odd dishes. Chef Välimäki’s style of cooking can be described as an innovative coupling of French techniques with Nordic produce and sensitivities. The line between the French and the Nordic is blurred, turning the cuisine into something both familiar and foreign. In a large white and icy dining room, the FOH are sleek, formal but caring. Due to wintery produce shortage, the biggest tasting menu I could opt for was the 9-course priced reasonably at €155.

It began with many amuse items – pretzel with French cheese, vinegar and cress, pork scratching with mushroom cream, and duck skin crisp. Salty and fluffy sardine was half buried in a cloud of chilli-ed candy floss. The floss, also infused with popping candy, provided layers of taste (sweet, vinegar-y and spicy) and texture (fast evaporation and tickling sensation), a ingenious contrast to the more traditional flavour of the sardine. Raw and slightly textured shrimp (as in sort of frozen) arrived in a wonderful entourage of frozen local cheese, beetroot and borage leaves. The combination of sweet, creamy prawn with lightly salted milky cheese and intensely sweet beetroot was very enjoyable; the borage left a refreshing touch in my mouth. Also agreeable was cream cheese with malt crackers and bleak roe. This was a interplay of salt and sea salt (cheese and roe), elevated by by cleansing, multi-textured celery (compressed stalk cubes, I think, and fresh leaves).

Artichoke was served as if a French pate – a rectangular block toppled with jellified vegetable surface. On one side was a miniature of wintery garden where colourful pickled roots and fresh radish shoots sprang from edible soy. There was a well-thought out contrast between the pickle acidity and the peppery freshness; the “pate” itself had a distinct velvety mildness. “Onions” was the most outstanding dish of the meal. It was a plate of onions, many onions. There were onion carpaccio, roasted onions, onion tapioca, onion consomme, and onion-infused madeleine (!!). The dish showcased how varied the flavours of onions could be through cooking. The essence was, nonetheless, the umami sweetness that was enhanced by aromatic chrysanthemum petals and distilled by creamy mozzarella mousse and bitter leaves.

Foie gras with pear was a more traditional delight. The foie gras parfait was glazed with a pristine layer of pear jelly; the pear sorbet became juicy ice numbing the palate but at the same time releasing intense fruity freshness; the assortment of muesli, quinoa and biscuit created a sparkling texture contrast. Scallop was expertly seared and plump. Its remarkable pureness was made complex by the rendition of two-texture squid (seared, rolled and spaghetti-ed), the squash puree and the precisely aerated beurre blanc foam. On the side was multi-texture cauliflower – mousse, carpaccio and tartar.

The meal continued with two fish and one meat. “Cod” was nearly a gills-to-fin dining, featuring cod cheek, shaved roe, tongue and skin and finished with parsley oil, while “Amber” was roasted and paired with pea puree and pea broth. Comforting. There was a pause insinuated by a rich cleanser of chocolate mousse and fennel sorbet in a pot. The indulgent chocolate-y depth was skillfully adjusted and maximised by the aroma of fennel and star anise. The spices lingered a while on the palate. Pigeon flew from Anjou (in a plane) to become a very rich main course. The breast was faultlessly roasted; and its game-y taste was brought to live by the entourage of black olive, salsify and blackberry-infused classic jus. The toast on the side was very much a liver filled croquette.

Chocolate panna cotta was drizzled with frozen beer drops and toppled with malt ice cream. Citric potato ice cream was encased in a hard, malt-dusted white chocolate shell; the soil of malt crumble and chocolate provided sweetness to contrast. The last course (I really didn’t want the meal to end!) was chocolate cake covered in dark and sexy chocolate gloss, with pistachio puree and sesame ice cream. The playful take on nutty combination resulted not only in a pungent scent but a complex and wonderful sweetness, which was balanced off very elegantly mildly bitter Japanese green tea milk sauce. The meal concluded with the petit four.

While my meal at Chez Dominique was not the most heart-stopping of my life but definitely one of the most reliably delicious, I appreciated and thoroughly enjoyed both the dishes and the construction of the menu. Chef Välimäki’s cooking is mature and very well-informed of both Nordic and French traditions that become the ethos of Chez Dominique. (For some reasons, this brings to mind another very enjoyable meal at Passage 53 in Paris where the Japanese kitchen dashed out modified French marvels). And there will be no doubt that I will return to sample the ultimate “Menu Dominique”. Fact.

RATING: 5/5

CHEZ DOMINIQUE

Rikhardinkatu 4,
Helsinki
Finland

Tel. +358 9 612 7393

www.chezdominique.fi

Rating: 3.5/5

Three boys with a piping hot hole-in-a-truck available all-day on Berwick Street. They did not happen to be “models” (or pimps) but a fine purveyor of Neapolitan pizza called Pizza Pilgrims. The “Pilgrims” are Thom, Jamie and Louis. English. They has, recently, scoured Italy in search of the perfect pizza and came back not only with a series of cool clips on YouTube but pretty strict ethos of pizza making. Their dough is made fresh (overnight for it to rise); their loose San Marzano puree has a good depth of sweet acidity; their cheese – Mozzarella – tastes decent and produces loveable stringy-ness. Their price range is between £5 and £6. All pizza is prepared by order (hence a little waiting time).

My “Pilgrims” experience was thoroughly likeable. Pizza Bianca (£6) – Napoli salami + cherry tomatoes – benefited much from the cushion-y base and the melting mozzarella. The just cooked and juicy cherry tomatoes added a refreshing depth to the flavoursome construction. That said, I wish the crust were a little thinner, making room for a little more topping. Pizza Margherita (£5) was also pretty spot on for taste and texture – milky, gummy cheese and sun-kissed tomato sweetness. Yet (again) I wish the crust was not as chunky so that the pizza could hold more of those delicious flavours. After two pizzas (I think one and a half is the right amount for lunch), I can also taste that there is so much love, passion, commitment and research going into these pizzas. And while I didn’t fall head over heels with the offerings, I can tell that within the 3-mile radius at least Pizza Pilgrims dash out the best, most authentic and most considered products.

BAHN MI 11

Rating: 4.5/5

Bahn Mi is – apologies for being unable to come up with a less dull description – a baguette-based sandwich with Vietnamese fillings, dating back to the Colonial time and meant to be taken as snacks. The offerings by Bahn Mi 11 (stapled at quite a few market locations around London and having caught the eyes of Jamie Oliver in his TV show Union Jack) were pretty big and excellent, while the price varies between £4.50 and £6. Imperial BBQ (£5) was not just great but had already become my (and TOB’s) addiction. I loved the filling of zingy and crunchy root vegetable pickle and pork slivers that had been doused in caramel and lemongrass. The generous bush of coriander leaves left citrus-y burst, and the chilli a little tinkling sensation. You can also adjust the level of heat, too. Fish Q (£6) was also pretty immense. The herb and spice marinated fluffy cat fish had good dimensions and a stronger-than-usual taste (for fish).

Apart from the tasty filling, it is also noteworthy that the baguette by Bahn Mi 11 was very commendable, too. The crust was thinner than your regular French baguette; the inside was more airy; and what’s best was that Bahn Mi 11 scooped out quite a bit of the white bread sponge (inside) making room for more filling. This made the ratio of meat and carbohydrate brilliantly satisfying (for me) and the flavours pleasantly balanced. Portion-wise, one is pretty enough for lunch, though I don’t mind finishing two <3 <3 <3

YOOBI

Rating: 3.5/5

Yoobi prides itself for being the first temaki (AKA hand roll sushi) bar in London. Luckily, it also takes pride in getting the products and the ambiance quite right. The flashy, glimmering cube-like temaki island formed the centre of this quirky space of brown, cardboard-box-like and angular design. You order your hand rolls at the counter. There were three prices – £3.20, £3.60 and £4 – across 8 filling combinations. The inspiration of these fillings was taken from Tokyo to Rio to New York. That said, it struck me as there was a lack in variety of fillings on offer because three of the combos were tuna, three others salmon and the other two vegetable.

Despite all the criticism and doubts, I enjoyed my rolls at Yoobi. Spicy Tuna (£3.60) was deep-filled and meticulously pieced together. The cubes of tuna came across in my mouth as very fresh; the rice had lightness and acidic subtlety (a pleasant surprise for correctness for takeaway sushi!); the nori oozed gentle seaweed fragrance and did not turn unbearably wet by the rice; the creamy spicy sauce had decent kicks; and the crushed croutons provided joyful crusts. The same enjoyment applied to Cured Salmon (£4) with sesame dressing (I think) and nashi pear. Again there was great quality fish coarsely chopped to carry the sweet, velvety dressing. The pear batons were juicy and cleansing. I also liked Tuna Tartar (£4). This was (again) good quality Spanish tuna carefully marinated (in soy sauce I think?) it turned into a marvellous Cola colour and paired simply with sesame seeds. Avocado & Asparagus (£3.60) with carrot, spinach and white miso sauce did not result in the same spectacle. I found the shredded carrots slightly dry and the taste of everything did not jump out. All in all, Yoobi delivered (and I hope they will be able to keep up the consistency when the place is packed). The rolls I had were fresh and lovely. They also distilled my doubt and fear of having takeaway sushi to an extent. That said, you will need at least three to feel an impact of eating.

GOLDEN GATE CAKE SHOP

Rating: 3.5/5

Compared to all the above, Golden Gate Cake Shop looks very dodgy. The ludicrously cheap price tag – and the fact that all tourists will stop for a picture with those toxic looking cakes on display – also makes a stop at this place very questionable for proper foodies. When I saw their Ham and Egg Bun, I assumed straightaway the egg would be from carton and the ham a piece of Chinese Spam. I also knew that their massive char siu puff was made from cheap cut of un-organic pork and suffered some artificial (but edible) colour enhancement. But, all this did not stop me from going to the place for years.

Golden Gate Cake Shop brings about some nostalgic memories, with the price tag that reminds you of third-world countries. (Nothing there costs more than £1.50)!! Here I found many very good bites among the not-so-great ones. Chicken Curry Bun (£1.20) boast a cushion-y, mildly sweetened bread with a dry chicken and potato curry filling. There was enough flavour from the filling to get me going until the bun was gone. The same story for Char Siu Puff (£1.20) which contained a lot of sweetened pork. The flake-y pastry was also acceptable done and a lot less greasy than many “proper” restaurants nearby in Chinatown. Custard Bun and Kaya Bun also had a good taste but not an awful lot of filling; Sponge Cake was correctly fluffy but needed a touch more of sugar; Tuna Onion Bun did not kill me. The selection of sweet pastry was delightful, especially the one with glucosic lotus seed paste and musty, salty century egg filling!!

So, if you are looking for great quality stuff of organic provenance, this is definitely NOT the place for you. But, like me, you need a dirty but tasty cure and a calorie-worthy bargain, it is not likely that you will dislike Golden Gate Cake Shop ^_^

(More cheap ‘n good stuff can be found here!!)

PIZZA PILGRIMS + BAHN MI 11

Berwick Street (Porn Alley End/Next to Yauatcha)
London
W1F 8TW

www.banhmi11.com and www.pizzapilgrims.co.uk
YOOBI

38 Lexington Street
London
W1F 0LL

Tel. 0208 123 6601

www.loveyoobi.com

GOLDEN GATE CAKE SHOP

13 Macclesfield Street
London
W1D 5BR

Tel. 020 7287 9862

My first impression of Faviken was that it could be the PLACE good people want go to instead of heaven. Magnificently wooded, shrouded by snowy mountains and curbed by a frozen lake (I went in winter), Faviken Magasinet is a private estate north of Stockholm in an area called Jarpen. You may reach Faviken by a 1-hour flight to Are or Ostesund and a subsequent 1-hour car/taxi ride. Luckily, Faviken offers a B&B service. 8 not-so-large rooms dominate the left wing of the first floor of this sizable hunting lodge. Very cozy and equipped with Wi-Fi. Also on the first floor overlooking the snow-covered ground was a spacious sauna with (all-inclusive) beer and champagne for guests to indulge. On the ground floor are the kitchen, the common room and the lounge. The dining room is on the right wing of the first floor. You need to gain access via the lounge. The price for dinner+room+breakfast was 2250SEK per person (approx £207).

The service at Faviken used to be a one-man show. Youthful (and still is), Magnus Nilsson was Astrance-trained and helmed both the kitchen and FOH since 2008. Then, Faviken was pretty much a private dining space where Magnus cooked on request. Magnus would cook a fixed multi-course meal for one sitting only; and all diners were booked in at 7pm.

7pm sharp

7pm. All guests were led into the downstairs lounge for drinks and snacks. The space was dreamily lit, whilst the only signification of noise was the burning fireplace. The meal (I heard) conformed to a philosophy of rektún food (“real” food), paying respect to the raw beauty of the produce, the ways flavours should naturally be maximised, and the gastronomic timelessness as opposed to flashy and fashionable cooking. The produce were sourced locally – many raised and grown on the estate, some from Jamtland and Norway. Before other guests arrived I took an opportunity to speed eat cured pork sausage and pickled carrots. (Yes!!). It was porky and well-rendered with fat content. The carrots had mild acidity and a good crunch. No other diner would ever know of this. Five other diners joined my section (unaware of the existence of the pork sausage) and were straightaway entertained by light and fragile with flaxen and vinegar crisp. There was an element of risk picking the piece up. Fresh cheese in warm whey was silky and memorable. The incredible burst of aroma from the little lavender petal raised my expectation of the meal. Smoked trout roe arrived disconcertingly Japanese – like a gunkan maki of salmon roe – but the black cup-like base was immediately revealed as pig’s blood. Explosive. The smoky liquid from the roe contrasted with the musty crispy blood cup. It was very comforting, too, and not a dish that sounded quirky just for the sake of it. Crispy lichen and reindeer moss did not do it as much for me. They tasted like dried sponge-y crisps. I preferred the one with dried egg yolk. Cured goose slices rectified all this. Shiny and maturely cured, the goose reminded me of some very good Jamon Iberico with high fat content. Interestingly, the aftertaste seemed to linger a lot longer than when I have a good sliver of Jamon Iberico.

All amused, guests (me included) were led into the first floor dining room..

The upstairs room was bare. The only ornaments that graced the room were dried fish roe, dehydrated trout and cured pork chunks hanging from the ceiling. Scallop cooked over burning juniper branches was the first to mesmerise me. This was a simple construction at its best. Just scallop. Grilled alive in its shell. Over coal and burning juniper branches. Perfectly done, the scallop was firm, translucent and sweet. The iodine rich broth was a natural result of the cooking and captured the deep and soulful primitive-ness of the sea. The best of my life. My langoustine was a supreme 5-or-6incher immaculately presented. The seasoning of fermented mushroom juice – made with soy and vinegar I think – was distinctly minimal but yielded umami acidity to juxtapose with the sweet and succulent meat. Another best of my life. Cod “lightly brushed with honey and fried in a dry pan” also hit the highest note. I oouuu-and-aaaa-ed over the burnt sweet crust that immersed itself with the firm sea-sweet cod. The pairing of carrot cooked “almost burnt sour milk” (bitter) and spruce and alcoholic vinegar jelly was striking and effective. Trout barely cooked was another marvel. The oatmeal sauce helped douse the fish with caramelised robustness, while the grated carrots allowed the palate to refresh with zings.

I moved on to beetroot cooked to a burnt effect in the fire. The charred skin left smokey bitterness to contrast with the ruby red, mellow and sweet beetroot. Along with the pungent, precisely salted cod roe powder, the mead-infused whipped cream – smooth in texture and mediating in taste – provided another dimension of bittersweet contrast. Porridge served with steamed and pickled onions was dainty. Unique layers of texture – gummy porridge, soft and crunchy onions. The dressing of grain vinegar and kale juice tasted, bluntly speaking, of diluted chlorophyll with rice-y acidity. At this point, Magnus and his troop marched into the dining room with a bone bigger than my shoulder and began sawing it. This was to become my next course of marrow, dices of raw cow heart and grated turnips. I was struck by the pure taste of the heart – rich but sans smell – made pleasing by the warm, unctuous gelatin of the bone marrow. The grated turnip played a zingy, natural ‘slaw with kicks, while the green crystal of salt (I deducted as celery infused) lent a herbal note to the bleeding compilation. I forgot.. to take a picture of the next dish “Pork chop fried in a pan and then rested on the grill. Sour onions. Swede.”.. and (what’s worse) I even forgot what it looked like (!!). What I remember was a big chunk (again) was presented at the table and sliced per guest. The pork was moist and tender. There was a healthy ratio between fat and meat, which left a glistening after-texture on my lips. It was preceded by the mussel in consomme below.

Desserts looked understated but brought about joy. Fermented lingonberries with thick cream and a sprinkle of sugar had a good contrast of sourness and sweetness. Raspberry ice was an intense sorbet with tangy complexity. Sourmilk sorbet was prepared minutes before serving. It rested amid the sabayon-like foam of whisked duck eggs. To me, it felt a reincarnation of custard – aerated and freezing to the tongue. The surprise lay at the bottom in form of raspberry jam. Cheeky. I am sure this would bring about nostalgic memories for many. The multi courses concluded with pine bark cakes toppled with hyssop, creamed pudding and frozen buttermilk. The note from the pine bark was distinct but it melded into a vision of a pasture embraced by a scented forest. A little of dairy-sweetness and a sensation of snow. A metaphorical dish of the place itself..

I didn’t have much time to metaphorise or metamorphosise as I was shown the way back into the lounge, with the guests (who still did not know I had an extra pork sausage dish). There were nibbles of dried berries and meadowsweet candy, but I was taken by tar pastilles. Not the best way to describe it but it reminded me of liquorice gum. Slightly tougher and less fragrant. There were last shots of booze, too. Four bottles. Brought to the table by Magnus himself. My pick was the alcoholic eggnog (far right), which was sensuously creamy. The rest (I had a sip) was not so much to my liking. The red one (far left) made from berries was (with all due respect) very musty.

A good friend of mine often uses the term “life-changing” to judge or define a meal. And to me, my dinner at Faviken was life-changing to the point of no return. This is a world-class produce-focused restaurant, while the philosophy of rektún food is truly and skillfully materialised by Magnus and his (very small) kitchen brigade. Dishes are thoughtfully constructed. No fuss. No pretense. Real, raw, high quality and tasty food. The FOH team led by manager Johan was also knowledgeable and exceptional. (The only downside of my experience at Faviken is that ever since the meal I have been feeling disheartened by seafood anywhere else).

Interestingly, Faviken has so far been a restaurant of no recognition. It has fallen beyond the Michelin route and is not yet noted by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. (I am sure this will change)… and I’ll leave it here for you to reflect ^_^

AND OH!!!!!

Have I NOT shown you the fish!!?!?

RATING: 5/5
GO FOR: An unforgettable experience

FAVIKEN MAGASINET

Fäviken 216
830 05 Järpen
Sweden

Tel: +46 647 40177

www.favikenmagasinet.se

The easiest is the tastiest..

L’Avant Comptoir is a hole-in-the-wall “tapas” bar attached to Hotel Relais in St Germain des Pres, Paris. Unlike the hotel’s popular but booking-essential bistro Le Comptoir, you can just walk in at L’Avant pretty much any day and any time you’d like. The menu featured a decently priced wine selection (French, of course) and a joyful range of charcuterie (€4-€22) with a few tapas-sized cooked dishes (€3-€7). The majority of the menu were laminated and hung loosely on the ceiling of the bar. You need to be able to read a bit of French or make some random guess from the printed photos as to what these dishes are.

Boudin Noir (€3.50) was flash grilled for a moreish effect and presented sandwiched by soft and sweet meringue discs. A bloody (pun-intended) brilliant savoury macaroon. The platter of Jambon Noir de Bigorre de Pierre Matayron (€22) was generous in size and divine in taste. I liked a touch of fat, a hint of salt and a pronounced porky flavour but I loved the fact that it was also thinly and expertly sliced. Tuna Tataki (€4.50) – a chunky piece of tuna torched on both sides and served with acidic puree and cress – was less successful. My issue was not so much about the tuna but the  redundant olive oil underneath. Grilled Scallop with Jambon (€LostTrackOfPrice) was just cooked but could have done with more snoozing on the grill for a charred effect. Deliciousness was restored by Roast Beef (also €LostTrackOfPrice). The roast beef was paper-thin and a little pink in the middle. The light dressing of pepper and parmesan helped bring out the genuine beauty of the beef.

By far, the meat dishes were very commendable..

Oh my crepe!!

I rounded up my meal at L’Avant Comptoir with their OTHER great thing: a creperie stall at the front window (!!). My Ham+Cheese+Egg below (made from buckwheat flour) was a killer and could have been a meal in itself. Good quality ham; gooey Emmental cheese (I assumed); unctuous egg yolk; a note of black pepper; and the crepe base that achieved a good balance of soft and crispy texture. While this was not the best crepe I’d ever eaten in Paris, it was a well-conceived one.

RATING: 3.5/5
GO FOR: Heavy (or light?), porky bites.

L’ AVANT COMPTOIR

9 Carrefour de l’ Odeon
Paris
France
75006

Tel. +33 144 27 07 97

www.hotel-paris-relais-saint-germain.com