All posts filed under “Thailand

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One “Hip” Bar and Many Others

Right! This is the round-up of places I’d been in Bangkok before I move on to reviewing the places in London.

First up was the Minibar Royale, a very hip, “American diner’s” hangout kinda place for Bangkokian celebrities and socialites, serving up easy Western kinda food in a “hip” kinda way. Nothing too fancy or worth a detour for real foodies, really, as most dishes were okay – some totally missed, and very few hit. I came across the super tender Seared Rack of Lamb, Potato Puree, Herb Roasted Mushrooms and Jus Vinaigrette. While the combination was nothing too stunning, the lamb was perfectly cooked and one of the most tender I’d ever eaten. Other savoury dishes, such as Baked Spinach and Cheese and Wagyu Mini Burgers, were something I could cope with. The spinach was a touch too salty for me, while the mini deconstructed Wagyu burgers, though of high quality, were too inconvenient to eat as the leaves, the pickled – whatever should have been inside a burger – were left elsewhere on the plate, leaving me to re-aseemble the burgers myself.

The most disappointing dish of the day was Bacon Wrapped Scallops with Corn Salsa. The combinations were disparate and the flavours crashed with one another. I must say, the bacon was really crispy but as there was hardly any scallop meat inside the wrap but an overwhelming amount of enoki mushrooms in its place, you couldn’t really cake it Bacon Wrapped Scallops, could you? Indeed, the mushrooms were the damning ingredient of the dish – elastic chewy texture and washed out flavours. The corn salsa tasted like plain sweet corn. Period. Luckily, the dessert of Banana Cake I ordered was orgasmic and redeemed the whole average meal. Fragrant, soft and gooey layers of banana and sponge cake that contained the right amount of sweetness, not overpowering the mellowy fruity flavours. I couldn’t enjoy it more.

Another trendy outing at the T Lounge, Siam Kempinski Hotel where Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin is, was equally average. Despite the grand venue, the afternoon tea was adequate. Light, fluffy scones with the clotted cream that was a bit of a let-down. Finger sandwiches were deep-filled but did not ooze out flavours as much as they looked, while the “cake” tier was too Christmas-oriented – mince pie, gingerbread, and the likes – which left one crave for more. The afternoon tea outing cost around 750 baht, including tea, but I feel with this price, it’s better to just go for a lunch set at Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin opposite the T Lounge.

My slightly cheaper lunches fared better when it came to flavours. Taling Pling on Ground Floor at Siam Paragon has been one of my most favourite food haunts when I pass by Bangkok. Almost all dishes there were ace – traditional Thai food with a touch more of refinement and modest twists. Take this Rolled Fishcakes for example. One traditional Thai dish represented in a novel manner. Thin layer of Thai fishcake mixture was rolled along with a thin sheet of omelette, dipped in light batter and deep fried for a perfect crispness. This gave a touch of sweet neutrality and gorgeous crunch to this usual fiery, spongy nibble dish.

The orange prawn curry with omelette was ridiculously appetising. Foreigners beware, this was not the coconut milk based curry that you all are accustomed to but a lighter type of curry, almost broth-like and usually with fish or shellfish, with mostly herbal ingredients ground together to form a paste. The colour was orange but not that there was any actual orange in the curry. Taste-wise, it was sour, spicy, salty and sweet – in, more or less, that order! The prawns were nicely poached and the spongy omelette was sweet and bitter – the bitterness came from the Cha-Om leaves – adding the much needed meaty finish to the dish. Guess what, I drank up the whole bowl!


Then the high-end Som Tam place next door to Taling Pling, Cafe Chilli. The place refines Thai street food Som Tam and other North Eastern spicy salad dishes. The flavours were authentic enough, but not to the extent that they were right from the stalls in some dingy alleys. The compromise for that would be the super high quality ingredients Cafe Chilli offered and probably the re-assurance that all the dishes here would be hygiene guaranteed. Dishes of note were Grilled Chicken Rubbed with Tumeric, which came with sweet chilli dipping sauce and Cafe Chilli’s signature salty and spicy Larb sauce, and Tub Warn, a salad of spicy, pan-poached pork liver.

And, to finish this meal and extinguish the heat, I opted for Thai Coconut Ice Cream that came with a traditional selection of Thai toppings, such as peanuts, palm seed in syrup, sticky rice and sweet potatoes poached in sugar syrup. I shouldn’t forget mentioning that Cafe Chilli went extra miles and gave you a separate helping of the topppings for you to DIY your ice cream. Super duper!


Last but never least, it was my return to Bo.lan Restaurant, which I had blogged about, to catch up with old friends. You can find the extended review here, but roughly, the place served up amazing, marginal, yet traditional Thai dishes that were herb-oriented and dated back to the court of King Rama V. The recipes were well-researched and refined for today diners. If you happened to have sweet teeth, Bo.lan’s tasting style desserts would take you to cloud nine. Theirs were gastronomic rarities in such a modernised and glabalised Thai era, and if you fancied another helping, do let the missus Front of House know. She’s superbly accommodating and high acknowledgeable; and I’m sure she would probably be able to fetch you another helping ;-)

That’s all, or almost.

And on the way back to London I had a few minutes to grab a Dubai speciality….

The McArabia… not very glam, was it?

Enough said, here are the addresses:


37/7 Citadine Bangkok
Sukhumvit 23
Bangkok 10110

Tel. +662 261 5533


Siam Kempinski Hotel
991/9 Rama I Road
Bangkok 10330

Tel. +662 162 9000


Ground Floor Siam Paragon
Bangkok 10330


Soi. Pichai-Ronnarong
Sukhumvit 26

Tel. +662 260 2962-3

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The Water Library

Right! The concept of the place – a restaurant with different types of water around the world amalgamating into an H2O list as opposed to a wine list – did spell out a big gimmick to me and I had, on one previous occasion, come across a restaurant with this sort of “water” list. My memory was still vivid as the diners seated next to me were arguing with the server that they just wanted water. Tab water or still water, they couldn’t care less. Seriously, I heart my water and can probably tell the differences (beyond their packaging) between Evian, Volvic and Vittel, but I never cared – and will never be – as such to attempt to pair water with my food. I’d rather pay for wine. Period.

The wine list at the Water Library, however, did not get me moo-ing. I love it, a great selection mostly from the vineyard from California. I am not used to American wine as I have an easier access to the French and I must say the American wine can be as nice.

Food? Amazing. Many of my friends love the Water Library and wanted me to try. The ex-Ember chef imported from Singapore did so many things right and did quite impress me, though I must say, not to the extent of Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin. I’ll come back to this in a few minutes. Now, let’s get cracking about the dishes.

The amuse bouche of croissant …

No joking.

Well, taste-wise, this imported dough baked fresh to serve was delicious. I couldn’t think of anywhere better but that could be because I am hardly served croissant at lunch time? Helene Darroze came close to this but hers wasn’t as packed with stringy-ness inside as a result of extra butter.

My starter of Marinated Tofu with Foie Gras, Shitake Emulsion and Benito Flakes was shaking my taste bud quite a bit. The tofu was made in house and very delicate. The emulsion of many things, however, was very sharp. Its sweetness cut through very distinctly, the boldness which would totally rock the world of most Thai diners. For me, I found it a little too aggressive – good but aggressive. The tofu should have been the centrepiece of the dish but it seemed, to me at least, the emulsion took over. That said, if we were to follow the food at the Water Library along this gastronomic line leaning towards a more East-meet–West stance, I think it’s very exciting, though I still wanted my dish to be just a little more subtle.

The main course of Crispy Chilean Seabass, Mushroom Bacon Ragout, Ponzu White Truffle Oil Butter was Stunning with a capitalised “S”. I couldn’t love it more and I never came across such a crispy piece of fish. I’d been wanting to know if this was cooked sous-vide and then pan-fried one side in heated butter? Could anybody answer me please? The fish was delicate and with the uber contrast in texture from the crispy side. The sauce was a lot subtler than my starter and it got all my love. Not one ingredient seemed to jar with another. The aroma of white truffle oozed out nicely and the mild and light creamy butter with the perfectly cooked mushrooms and bacon (with a bit of crunch and crisp) did compliment the fish well. That was, in my opinion, a Michelin-starred dish.

Desserts, we ordered loads to share, starting with the Apple Tart Tartin, Black Sesame Creme Brulee, Chocolate Cake with Banana Ice Cream, and Yuzu Pannacotta. Let’s begin with the tart tartin. I couldn’t criticise; it was flawless. Crispy, flaky pastry; exact level of sweetness and no hint of burnt bitterness from the caramel; apples soft and cooked to perfection. It was actually as good as Ramsay‘s signature Tart Tartin and obviously this one was way cheaper! The chocolate cake was also brilliant, very dark, sumptuous and very well paired with the banana ice cream.

The other two dishes – Sesame Creme Brulee and Yuzu Pannacotta – were not that good. The flavour of the creme brulee was too intense, too sweet, too one dimensional, which left me to wonder if it would have been a better dish if the chef went for the white sesame creme brulee instead? That said, the texture of the creme brulee was very lovely, smooth on the tongue. The pannacotta, however, was just wrong. The texture was like a clog of cream. Too thick and when coupled with the gelatin became somewhat muddy. There was no bounce that a pannacotta should have. Also, the bits that came with it – mint sorbet, orange compote – totally jar the dish. The pannacotta itself was acidic, rather than lightly sweet and neutral, and the compote just added more acidity to the dish. Not pleasant and it was the only dish we did not finish.

So, why didn’t I like this meal as much as Kiin Kiin? I have to say, the thing that annoyed me at the end of the meal, I can’t quite tell what the style of cooking of the chef is, what are his identities. On the one hand, there are dishes like the tofu and the sesame creme brulee which verge on being refined fusion; on the other, there are these stunning dishes of Chilean seabass and the tart tartin, which are more of the nouvelle western food. The latter style fares somewhat better as they seem less ambitious in the recipes and relies on skills and precision. That’s why I kinda prefer Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin as the dishes are clearer as to what they are and the dishes on the menu that are more in line with one another. Still, the Water Library is a ridiculously great restaurant in Bangkok and food-wise it can easily rival quite a few one starred restaurants in the UK.

And have I not mentioned Tattlers voted the Water Lib the best restaurant in Bangkok?

Enough said,

My head rating says, “9 out of 10″.

My heart rating says, “7 out of 10″.


1st Floor Chamchuri Square Unit 217
Payathai Road, Pratumwan
Bangkok 10330

Tel. +662-160-5188

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Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin: Thai Food, No!?

It has almost been a year since I visited Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen, renowned for its molecular deconstruction of Thai classics, but at the time, the other place we went to during the trip – known to the world as Noma – totally outdid it. I particularly did not enjoy my meal at Kiin Kiin then. Reasons? The price was, to me, unreasonable; the ambiance un-charming; the meal un-balanced; and the cuisine bizarrely not Thai. So, why should I bother going to Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin recently opened its door at the new Siam Kempinski Hotel in downtown Bangkok? Well, I was just wanting to check out the humoured-to-be O! so posh hotel and also died to see how this “bizarrely not Thai” food would fit in Bangkok’s fine dining scene.

First impression … of the hotel. Grand, too grand. I felt I was in some 7-star hotels in the Bahamas. The drainage in the toilet wasn’t very good though as the foul smell hit my nose while I was tidying myself for the restaurant.

First impression … of Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin. Grand. Very, very grand! I never walked into a restaurant with such a high ceiling as this. Probably I did at Ducasse au Plaza Athenee but then I was too fixated by the water drop crystal chandeliers. Decor-wise, it was traditional Thai but with out-of-this-world extravagance. Say, mini paddy fields, Thai teak house, a lot of dark reflexive mirrors on the walls to multiply our perception of space, tables well spread out as if to secure enough privacy for loaded Bangkokian urbanites.

The menu. I went for lunch. There were very few dishes to choose from. They did a 3-course set lunch priced very fairly at 1500 Baht, including some nibble at the beginning and petit four at the end. Trying to make the most of my second Kiin Kiin experience, I asked the manager if I could order an extra dish making it a four-course lunch. Not only that she happily accommodated my request, she also re-checked with the kitchen the serving order of the dishes and came back to inform me. Thoughtful, helpful – ticking all my boxes. While waiting I was asking for the dinner menu so I had something to graze on, well, visually. For dinner? There was only one tasting menu of 8-or-so courses, looking almost identical to what I had in Copenhagen. They charged 4500 Baht in Bangkok, which was cheaper than its brother restaurant but still quite a bill to pay in Thailand. Dishes were, more or less, similar to the lunch menu, but yes, instead of choosing 3 dishes out of 8, you’d probably get all written in the menu. No comment here as I should get writing about the food!

The table was laid …

First up. The nibble of Prawn Tapioca with Chilli Dip, Kaffir Lime Scented Lotus Root Crisps, and Soy Meringue Roasted Cashew. They were, what I’d say, the most “foreign” in flavours during my meal. That said, all was good. Crispy prawn tapioca which went perfect with the dip. The dip itself was interesting – mousse-like and very bouncy! With all the flavours combined, I felt as if I was eating a prawn cocktail reconstructed in a Thai way. The lotus root crisps were crispy, aromatic and with a touch of sweetness; the meringue was chewy and with the rather well-balanced saltiness from the soy.

Then the first starter of Frozen Red Curry with Lobster and Coriander. The fragrance of the kaffir lime leaves fused with coriander made my tummy rumble. There was a pause, however, as the dish came with a bit of theatricality, a jug of liquid nitrogen to be poured underneath the plate to maintain the sub-zero temperature and stop the frozen curry from melting. I was not sure if this theatricality could easily be substituted with a very chilled plate?

Taste-wise, the frozen curry could be described in such a more ordinary term as “ice cream” and it possessed all the flavours a Thai red curry should: spicy, salty and sweet. I found this rather extraordinary! Pieces of the lobster – yes, just thin pieces – were nicely cooked and presented with finely sliced Thai shallots/red onions adding a crunchy texture contrast and also some refreshing heat, while the longan sweetened up the dish and took away the burn. I was very surprised to say that I did enjoy the dish very much.

My second course Wagyu Beef Salad with Orchids and Spicy Marinate was, however, startlingly less innovative. I found the heat to be a little too strong for my liking – a ploy to sell more drinks? – but not to the point that it overpowered the dish. The Wagyu cut into mini cubes was perfectly seared and well marinated. Very tender and oozing the chilli. The orchids and the shoots didn’t do much for me. I thought the neutrality of them was not enough to even out the heat. And the level of innovation of this dish seemed to jar with the rest of my meal. If I had this dish not knowing it were from Kiin Kiin, I would have straightaway identified it as from Nahm.

So far, I had one REALLY HIT course and one nearly hit. My anticipation for the main Red Snapper in Green Coconut Curry and Beetroot became very high. And it arrived …


Don’t judge just yet! I tucked in, with a bowl of nicely steamed rice. The GREEN curry was hidden underneath the red beetroot foam and so was the fish – perfectly cooked to flake. Flavour-wise, the sweetness from the beetroot provided the “sweet” element of the dish as the term “Gang Kiew Wan” meant in Thai, though not the essential colour. What’s interesting was that these were beetroots in textures: foam, raw batons, dehydrated crisps, which I felt, did amuse my palate. Also, this dish tasted shockingly Thai. Say, if I had it blindfolded, I wouldn’t have known it did look this foreign! So, another love dish.

Desserts? I was tempted to ask for two but with the jeans that could barely accommodate a 3-course meal I settled for the Pandan Pudding or Sang-Ka-Yar Bai-Teoy, the dish I had eaten before in Copenhagen and the one that stuck in my taste memory. Inspired by Thai pandan custard with toast, this dish was a re-interpretation. The pandan custard – hereby referred to as Sang Ka Yar – came in three different forms and textures, the mousse, the tapioca, the ice cream, served with amazingly spongy pistachio bread. Just heavenly, the very Thai flavours of Sang Ka Yar – sweet, creamy and aromatic – were all there but the new contrasting textures added dimension to the dish. Another love, really.

The petit four of Banana Financier, Coconut Marshmallow, White Chocolate with Khao Mao, and Dark Chocolate Truffle was equally stunning. My last love of the day went to the white chocolate piece that had all the crunch of a ganache. I could not fault this petit four, seriously. While I was licking my lips (and fingers), head chef Morten Bojstrup, Nahm-trained and whom I faintly recalled to have met during my visit in Copenhagen, came over to my table for a chat. One very passionate and enthusiastic guy. He was temporarily relocated to Bangkok to oversee the opening.

Daring food, highest quality produce – way fresher than in Copenhagen – and the price tag that I wouldn’t need to whore myself for a meal. That was one almost faultless food experience I had ever had!

There remained two big questions. First, why did I dislike my first Kiin Kiin experience? I’d say, in the Copenhagen context, Kiin Kiin seemed misplaced. For a Thai person, to enjoy the cuisine by Kiin Kiin is perhaps to be able to associate what one eats with what one has had. Also, in Kiin Kiin’s defence, after I had this meal at Sra Bua, I could vouch it was an innovative Thai food with authentic Thai flavours, NOT what most Thais would describe as “fusion” food. This is that sort of food of memory manoeuvred by a scientific cooking approach to be recognised and appreciated by means of association. I could barely associate any – apart from the pandan dish – while in Copenhagen, hence my comment “bizarrely not Thai”. Here, perhaps because it was my second Kiin Kiin experience, I understood it more and grew to love it. It was such a breath of fresh air in Bangkok’s fine dining scene long dominated by traditional Thai restaurants with an untraditional price tag and “western” eateries that tried so hard to be fancy.

Second question? For Thai food lovers, why should they be bothered to come eat re-constructed Thai food? Well, they shouldn’t. I did not feel the place would attract regular diners as the menu was still very limited in choice. And yes, there might not be the need to go extra miles – from liquid nitrogen to alchemy – to achieve the authentically Thai taste, but it was fun, to me at least, when they did it, like once in a while you’d feel like skate-boarding through the city instead of taking the overcrowded tube.

Enough said,

My head rating says, “9 out of 10″.

My heart rating says, “9 out of 10″.

It’s also just about time to wish you all …


And thank you for reading me in the last 3-4 months :-D


Ground Floor
Siam Kempinski Hotel
991/9 Rama I Road
Bangkok 10330

Tel. +662 162 9000

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Really Is The Destination!

I was just following the crowd, my high school best friends, to this unassuming eatery Nhong May in Hua Hin, the location of which was obscure. It was sort of just off Petchakrasem Road (Hua Hin’s main road). If you head for Bangkok, turn left – if you head for Hua Hin, turn right – into Soi Hua Hin 70, cross the rail tracks and bear right until you see Hua Hin School on your left and the restaurant is on your right, just opposite the school. Complicated?

When I arrived, my friends had already ordered dishes and I was nibbling some of the leftovers for ideas. So, first leftover dish I re-ordered? Goong Chao Wang, whole prawns well simmered in coconut milk and prawn oil with a bit of Thai shallots and garlic. Extremely fragrant and once I picked the prawn with my fork, it just gushed out this sweet lava. Loved it, really couldn’t love it more! Hor Mok Hoy Ma Lang Puh, a sort of steamed curry pudding with mussels, served deceptively in scallop shells, was also perfectly cooked – very meaty inside and with the right balance of heat and the herbal aroma of kaffir lime leaves.


Another good dish was this Stir Fried Crab Meat with Spring Onions. More of a Chinese-Thai dish, simple and confident. The fluffy crab meat stir-fried with egg was given this touch of sweetness from spring onions and sliced onions and a hint of salty fish sauce and fresh chilli. Then, we had catfish cooked in two ways. The first was a sort of stir-fried with green peppercorns, kra-chai and chilli, which was nice but nothing memorable. The other Pla Duk Foo Phad Prik Khing (Stir Fried Crispy Catfish with Ginger and Chilli) was a sodomasochistic dish. Fiery and delicious beyond words! Great combination of textures, crispiness from the catfish and the ridiculously well cooked crunch from the snake beans. The heat was, well, quite strong and I was tearing up eating this dish. Interestingly enough, it does not overpower the aromatic ginger.




Right after I licked that plate clean, I called for an emergency helping of desserts. There was one dish only – Coconut Jelly that came in a coconut! – but it was heavenly. There was this cool and soothing flavour and the texture of the gelatin infused with shaved coconut meat that was just spot on. The dish was chilled through and through. They must have some really powerful fridge considering how thick the coconut was. I bade farewell to my friends and to the sunshine that I overslept most of my trip, and of course, to Nhong May.


Damn it, I could still do with one more of Phad Prik Khing!

Enough said,

My head rating says, “10 out of 10″.

My heart rating says, “10 out of 10″.


2/210 Opposite Hua Hin Wittayalai School
Hua Hin
Prachuabkirikun 77110

Tel. +668 6803 6474 , +663 251 5525

NOTE: Closed on Mondays. Cash only!

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(Not) The Destination?

My bags were packed for Hua Hin, another of Thailand’s seaside resort towns and a hub for Bangkokian urbanites, but before leaving I did not forget to google for places to eat. And I picked restaurant Kroui Pah Heed next to the Fishermen’s Pier in Cha-Am – called Sa-Pan Plah in Thai – which Thai bloggers and web boards seemed unanimous it was the destination for fresh seafood.

After two and a half hours’ drive, we got lost and needed to phone the restaurant for direction. Then, after a lot more left and right turnings, we got there Kroui Pah Heed. The pungent fishiness from the Pier hit as I was sliding out of my friend’s saloon. The good sign of freshness? Yes, it was. But, it was also revolting, honestly speaking, and thank God, my nose adjusted – or perhaps my sense of smell was totally not functioning any more? – to what Heston Blumenthal wouldn’t recall as the British smell of the sea.

The restaurant – a wooden poor man’s castle half falling into the sea – boast, well, well? I wasn’t sure what it boast really. There was no uniqueness as there were a handful more of identical eateries – identically half falling into the sea – just like Kroui Pah Heed lined up on the same dirt street. At the front, there were tiled fish tanks displaying the sea creatures and their dead distant relatives. Diners chose what they wanted and paid for the dishes by weight. That’s fair.

Now we tucked in, and totally, having been lost on the way did help me order as if out of Ethiopia. The first dish of Deep Fried Rock Lobsters with Garlic was a true divinity. Luscious, white and plump meat cooked to perfection. That bounce-in-my-mouth texture and the natural delicate sweetness of rock lobsters enhanced by the aroma of fried garlic and the sour and spicy sauce, I couldn’t think of anything better. And, it was just the first course. This was like having an orgasm before taking the trousers off. Oh! I wasn’t suggesting premature ejaculation, or was I?

The second dish of Stir-Fried Curry Crab was not as great, or perhaps, it was impossible to reach two orgasms in a matter of minutes? Never mind, the dish was not as it should have been. The curry was way too overpowering and the sauce lacked dimension, which really saddened me as I was thinking I had just chosen to execute a crab and now I didn’t even want to eat it!

Another of our dish, Steamed Prawns with Vermicelli, was also disappointing. The super-fresh prawns were let down by the sickly sweetness of the sticky soy sauce – please note I didn’t mean to alliterate the “s” – and they also put too much ginger in. All in all, a not very well balanced dish.

Our Deep Fried Whole Sea Bass with Fish Sauce Dressing fared better. Crispy skin, puffy meat and the right balance from the dressing. That said, it was not among ones of the most memorable I had. It came with a massive Crab Meat Fried Rice to share. Too bad the rice was a little too wet and once I squeezed the lime in, it became even wetter! How thoughtful…

We did not bothered with desserts. When the savoury dishes were more miss than hit, we might as well risk our taste bud and roam about to God-know-where in case we might came across something a little tastier. But, before I left, I did wander out to see the fishermen finishing their shift. Quite a sight I must say, and that’s actually the plus plus of going to Kroui Pah Heed or any other restaurants on the same street as you’d come across the scene nowhere else – at least nowhere else in Hua Hin – could offer.

Enough said,

My head rating says, “7 out of 10″.

My heart rating says, “6 out of 10″.


1 Sa Pan Plah Road

Tel. +6632 470 070

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Grilled River Prawns (and My Soaring Cholesterol!)

River prawns, in case you do not know, are the much sought after dish by Thai locals. Forget the high cholesterol; just imagine the sensually white, bouncy meat, the luscious, lava-like shrimp oil – and the grease it leaves on your lips that get you licking for more – the fresh, tangy and fiery dipping sauce, and the smell of charcoal where the prawns are grilled for our pleasure. And there are places where these shellfish delights are much bigger (and cheaper) than others. In Bangkok? Well, yes, but you’ll have to pay a hefty bill for them.

Today, with my parents, I strayed off the commercial route and headed to a provincial town Chachoengsao renown for its honey sweet mangoes, temple, a big bat cave – serious! – and the river Bang Pa Kong – yes, where the prawns dwell – for an indulgently Thai feast. My destination was a restaurant called Ruay, meaning “rich” in Thai, set on a massive raft. I could feel the breeze grazing through my face and distract myself looking at jumpy fish in the river. Yes, I knew, one of them fish would end up on my plate today!

First to arrive were this Pork Offal and Pickled Cabbage Soup and the Three Way Crispy Salad (Yum Sam Krob). The soup boast a fine balance between delicately poached offal and light pickled and very crunchy cabbage. Stems of spring onions and celery leaves took away the fowl smell of the offal, while the fried garlic oil added distinctively pleasing aroma to the dish. The salad of crispy fish maws, deep fried dried squid and cashew nuts – all crispy and crunchy, hence the title of the dish – was texture perfect but spicy, too spicy for my liking and would have been a lot nicer with a touch more of acidity.

Next up was my palate cooler stir-fry of Young Coconut Tips with Prawns. The sweet and crunchy young coconut tips went well with the prawns, sliced carrots and spring onions in a light soy-based tapioca flour sauce, a nice way to extinguish the heat of the salad.

Then, yes, the one that once swam in the river! My first main course of Steamed Sea Bass in Pickled Plum Sauce (Kra Phong Neung Chae Buay) was gorgeous. The fish, swimmingly fresh and perfectly steamed, soaked up all the goodness, the sour and salty flavours of the pickled plums, while the dried shitake mushrooms, pork loins, and pickled bamboo shoots steamed together with the fish provided not just contrasting texture but the depth of flavours. There was a mild heat from the chilli and the fresh herbal burst from the celery. This was just too good to be true.

As I was feeding myself to ecstasy, the Grilled River Prawns arrived. They were monstrously big, unhealthily packed with the shrimp oil. It was such a dilemma, to eat a lot or not! There was no extra added to this dish, just the raw beauty of the prawns cooked with modesty on a charcoal grill allowing the natural sweetness of the prawns to shine through. I slowly peeled the voluptuous  meat off the shell and dipped it in the sour and spicy sauce made from green bird’s eye chili, garlic and lime juice. The contrast of sweetness and tanginess was heavenly. Then, the shrimp oil, my ultimate guilty pleasure, mixing it with rice, eating it, licking it off the spoon. I seriously couldn’t have enough of this. And, did I not mention, the prawns were so big there was a lot of meat packed in their very slim-looking claws, too?

Looking closer …

That’s it and I unwound my appetite with some fruity desserts: Mango and Sticky Rice and Poached Santol in Jasmine Perfumed Syrup. The mango was so ripe that it oozed honey flavour and very, very mellow texture. The saltiness and the creaminess of the coconut milk came in nicely adding dimensions, whilst the sticky rice was brilliantly al dente, with a hint of neutral sweetness, which took away all the o-so-rich flavour of this dish very beautifully.

And I was thinking, that was the best ever. Well, not for long, and as I tucked into the Poached Santol, I just couldn’t help grinning, grinning, grinning and letting out a rather atrocious humming, the sound of self-inflicted pleasure, of eating too much good food in one meal. The santol was soft and sweet, yet retained a hint of natural bitterness of this fruit. The syrup was pleasant to the nose and very sweet. I mixed it with crushed ice and – wow – that was just one freezing delight.

The bill was not shocking, considering how much my parents and I had eaten and could not finish, and came to just under £40 or 2000 Baht. When we were about to leave, at 1pm, the raft got very busy, with a lot of locals hosting a mini banquet and others trying to impress their guests. We hurdled off and headed for Klong Suan 100 Years Old Market for an after-meal stroll, but before that we stopped to marvel at Thailand’s biggest Genesha statue, which interestingly, came in …

Very bright pink   -___-”

Enough said,

My head rating says, “10 out of 10″.

My heart rating says, “10 out of 10″.


293/3 Marupong Road
Chachoengsao 24000

Tel. +663 851 5431 , +663 851 2000