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Buns & Buttocks

St John – no.41 as of the 2011 World’s 50 Best Restaurants – is good at many things – the madeleines, the custard doughnuts, the gleaming soft-boiled eggs in salad, the not-awful offal, the capers that go into many things. Is their next best thing the afternoon “buttock” bun? I made an exception to eat …