Breakfast can be exciting.. (really?)
I love my breakfast and that’s the statement I am going to prove in my few upcoming breakfast posts. But, until then, I give you these….
BREAD STREET KITCHEN
Gordon Ramsay’s new joint at One New Change, opposite Jamie Oliver’s Barbecoa, was massive but stood majestically fake, a kind of gritty art deco with so many lamps that, if you snatched one into your shopping bag, the staff might not even realize. I heard of slow service during normal hours so I decided to pop in for breakfast instead. One standard menu. The most unique dish read Ricotta Hot Cakes, Banana, Honeycomb Butter, which nearly convinced me.
The Other Bib and I went for traditional Eggs Benedict (£7) and Full English (£11.95) respectively. I also ask for viennoiserie to share (£4.95). While my breakfast was not entirely bad – scrumptious, albeit oversalted, scrambled eggs and finely herbed sausage – the portion was meagre for £11.95. And, what’s worse, it did not come with any toast (an addition of £2.50). The Other Bib’s Eggs Benedict was less impressive. Nicely poached eggs toppled a substandard, low-end-supermarket-quality English muffin. The kind of stuff that put an Englishman like himself to shame, he said. The Hollandaise sauce lacked acidity. I could barely discern its taste from the runny yolk. The mixed bakery basket – pain aux raisins, pain au chocolat, croissant – came last as a dessert (WTF?). Despite the warmth, they did not taste fresh. The best thing of this breakfast was freshly squeezed orange juice. Exuberant! We had 4 glasses.
WOLFGANG PUCK’S CUT
I really like CUT. I like it so much I woke up early for their breakfast. The breakkie menu was audacious and broken into many sections, such as “Starter” and “Sides”. (Do you really need a side for your breakfast!?) American style. Dorchester price tag. Never mind..
My bakery basket (£9.50) was arguably the most expensive I came across in London. It was, however, very good and generously portioned. All the bits came with a real shine as opposed to the dry looking ones at Ramsay (above). Dainty pain aux raisins and flake-y croissant. The star of the bunch was the sticky Pecan bun. Heavenly gooey, toffee caramelisation and nutty bites.
The savoury stuff was good, too. My Salt Beef Hash Cake, Poached Eggs and Bearnaise Sauce (£14) was staggeringly large. Macho flavours came through from the meaty hash patty and crispy leeks, while the combo of velvety Bearnaise and Bordelaise formed contrasting layers of acidity and rendered the dish so delectable. And, the poached eggs? They squirted!! The Other Bib’s Buttermilk Pancakes with Sausages and Berries (£12.50) arrived a pile of pancake mattresses. Thick, fluffy and smelt super gorgeous. The whipped maple butter was a wicked treat. That said, it was too big for a normal human being to eat up.
To answer your question, we no longer required lunch or dinner on that day…
RIDING HOUSE CAFE
If you fancy a sighting of quirky rodents at your breakfast table, you will not be disappointed at Riding House Cafe. (I happen to love IT!) Standard breakfast menu with a nice selection of smoothies. The cooked breakfast, however, was just adequate. The Other Bib’s Full English (£9.4) was decent in quantity but trailed slightly behind in quality. The sausage did not taste of much. The black pudding was greasy and under-seasoned. The beans were criminally cold. My Eggs Hussard (£9) was a dish of confused flavours. There were ox heart tomato, spinach, ham, poached eggs, Bordelaise, and Hollandaise. While the same B + H combo worked at CUT, the Riding House version was underwhelming due to the improportionate pool of Bordelaise. The fresh veggies also cancelled out the unctuousness that could have worked from the eggs and ham topping.
Comfortable and charming space to kick back and relax in the morning, though.
My head rating for Bread Street Kitchen, CUT and Riding House Cafe says, “6, 7 and 6″.
My heart rating says, “5, 7 and 6″.
BREAD STREET KITCHEN
10 Bread Street
City of London
Tel. 020 7592 1616
WOLFGANG PUCK’S CUT LONDON
45 Park Lane
The Dorchester Collection
Tel. 020 7493 4554
THE RIDING HOUSE CAFE
43-51 Great Titchfield Street
Tel. 020 7927 0840