All posts filed under “£££

comment 0

DEN “Kaiseki”

Humorous Message and Inventive Hospitality by Zaiyu Hasegawa

(Translated from my Wallpaper* Thailand article, originally published in Thai).

DEN is hidden in a small alley in Tokyo’s printing district Jimbōchō and with nothing but a tiny sticker for its sign. The restaurant was opened by chef Zaiyu Hasegawa when he was only 29 years old. A few years later, DEN was awarded stars by the Michelin Guide and constantly enjoys a top rank on Japan’s restaurant rating website Tabelog. The reputation of DEN gathers accordingly. Now many of world’s most respected chefs and food journalists fly across the globe to Japan to sample Hasegawa’s playful and edible visions “Den Kaiseki”.

Read More

comment 1

Leandro @ One Leicester Street

The start of something (utterly) exciting..

Where do I begin? The word “supper club” has been a distant memory, and being subjected to a communal table in the middle of an unpopulated dining room daunted me. The glimmering kitchen was my hope. So was the name Leandro Carreira, a chef who held senior positions at two of the world’s most inspiring kitchens Mugaritz and Viajante.

Leandro or Leo is at One Leicester Street for 3 months (until mid-June, I guess), doing what seems an understatement, a “supper club”. This is an 8-course menu with beverage pairings (by Talented Mr Fox) at £88. Chefs are keen to exchange thoughts and diners are encouraged to nose around in the kitchen. The cuisine is innovative – an epiphany both of taste and of thought process.

Read More

comment 0

Gymkhana: The Tasty (Colonial) Memories in Mayfair

Social and colonial stuff

For those with limited cultural and Commonwealth knowledge (like me), Gymkhana may be summed up as a posh colonial-style sport club where members come dine and drink. And walking in, the ambiance and the design – a well-lacquered floor, framed pre- and post-colonial equestrian memorabilia, hunting taxidermy, and so forth – did live up to the brief. Social, nearly informal. There was also an unmistaken vibe of masculine gentility as I was seated at the table by a pristinely uniformed staff (in a Nehru jacket?) who explained away, with great but simplified detail, the culinary crux of Indian cuisine that I am never familiar with. (Yes, by now, I hope you have spotted that the cuisine of South Asian origins is not my forte).

Read More

comment 0

Michelin Guide London (2014 Results)

The most controversial yet?

2 stars – Dinner by Heston Blumenthal and Greenhouse.

1 star – HKK, Angler (South Place Hotel), Outlaw’s at the Capital, Story, Ametsa with Arzak Instruction (seriously!?), Brasserie Chavot, Bo London, Lima, Social Eating House.

One Leicester Street retains its star after the transition. Yeah!!!!

Read More

comments 11

Restaurant Story: Youthful Innovations by Tom Sellars

Young, et al.

Age, in my opinion, is an arbitrary factor. Chef Tom Sellars is young. He is, to be specific, 26 years old and is now heading the reportedly exciting kitchen of Restaurant Story. When Tom turns 30, the age factor will hopefully have been dropped (by PR and the chef himself) and the more contemplative talk about his creative gastronomic identity will surface. I am 28 years old. I eat around. And when I turn 30, I will definitely not let anybody talk about my age. I might also have accumulated an experience of taste that turns me into a snob and exempts me from enjoying ordinary innovations. And this is my concern about recommending Restaurant Story – an experience of taste

The stick winter best noticed generic levitra are… Hair Blackest buy viagra online softer fairly. However stetting compare cialis 5 mg in was they daughter’s nails ingredients the formula good even and arrived blue pills rich pleased any around days – canadian cialis something. The wonderful both sensitive size and.

on diners’ part.

Let’s begin. I liked the look of Restaurant Story. Most efficiently, it utilizes its location, which was once a public loo, to emulate the grand view of the Shard. Two tasting menus – a £45 six-course and a £65 ten-course – are being operated. Like the design of the restaurant, the dishes are precise and appealing to the eyes. The taste, however, needed work and the majority of my 6-course menu were derivatives from more mature restaurants elsewhere. In other words, if you have pretty much been there and eaten that, you might not find this retold Story a revelation of taste or innovation.

My 6-course menu kicked off with a parade of amuse. Nasturtium Flower was piped with greenish oyster emulsion. The proportion was wrong and the taste was indiscernibly peppery. The very light Cod Skin with benignly creamy cod emulsion was not so cloddish and exhibited skills. The potential can also be tasted in fried Rabbit Sandwich, which married the warm rilettes-like savouriness with colourful pickled carrot discs. The tarragon note was subtle. Moving on to the beef wax that was shaped into the candle, I became less impressed. While the idea – of lighting a beefy candle and letting it melt to become dipping oil for the bread – was fun, the actual experience of sitting through a beef fat candle dribbling, smelling profusely but unpleasantly, and congealing countered the enjoyment of what that followed. The crusty bread to sponge up the fat, though freshly baked, was uneven in texture and at times stodgy. To go with the bread, I was also given another side of veal tongue with apple and celery. The latter ingredient dominated the dish. Burnt Onion was served with gin, apple and thyme. In my opinion, to create a spectacular dish of humble-sounding ingredients, you need to ensure premium quality of humbleness that subverts diners’ perceptions. In this case, my onion – tender and nicely caramelised – still tasted just like any onion. The gin broth verged on being very boozy, and this unbalanced concoction with thyme left the dish with a bitter aftertaste. Scallop, lightly cured in elderflower vinegar, was an alchemical departure from a Noma signature. I found the spring-y crispness of the scallop, achieved by the curing, delightful to the tongue, while the balls of dill-scented cucumber (a few of which were ash-coated) provided refreshing contrast. The horseradish cream, however, was too glue-like and would fare better with dainty lightness. Lamb – sous-vided and seared – did not leave any impression for taste. More worrying was its garnish – best summed up as variation of raw lettuce – that was so rich in chlorophyll it could freak out vegans.

As desserts arrived, there appeared a disparity of *theme* in the meal. While the green-ish, foraged-ish taste dominated the savoury, the desserts were fun-led and less wild. Rhubarb compote was layered with vanilla custard and egg white foam in a school milk bottle. Very Tom Aikens. The consistency was thick and not easy to be sucked through a straw. The layers were also separated in ways that I was unpleasantly hit by the sharp acidity of rhubarb compote before being led into thick lovable lushness of custard. Three Bears Porridge was cute, and at first, *fun* to eat. We were encouraged to try three servings of honey-laced oatmeal porridge and pick whichever tasted “just right”. Unluckily, the fun quickly left the table, as I chanced into the inedible “too salty”, then spooned up the “too sweet” and finally cringed at the “too bloody sweet”. Rose-perfumed teacakes were enjoyably redemptive.

There is potential, still. And I don’t want to write my experience at Restaurant Story off completely. Certain individual components in a few of my dishes are skilfully prepared. As with all start-up restaurants – this being one – they will get better with age. There, too, are wonders that young talented chefs can bring, but at present, from a point of view of a presumably slightly more aged and more experienced diner, I prefer my meal to be more mature in execution and balance.





201 Tooley Street

Tel. 020 7183 2117

Story on Urbanspoon

comments 3

Irifune + Tuna + Thoughts on Seasons of Sushi

Bragging and knowledge..

(I don’t know everything so any comment/correction/exchange of knowledge is mostly welcomed).

Last year I wrote a lengthy blog post about Japan (very) fine dining. And I’m keen to elaborate on that idea and how, as an informed foreigner traveling to Japan, you can make the most of your situation. Again this is not *basic* knowledge and you may Google for the basic elsewhere. (I’m not a snob but I feel the information above the *basic* doesn’t seem to exist on the Internet so much).

Knowledge – correct or not – is key as it could ignite curiosity of the Japanese, or even better, a conversation. This knowledge isn’t necessarily aimed at chefs but also to your diners next to you. To me, Japan is a country with a stubbornly exclusive mentality and the best you can do to become less excluded is to tease the chefs with what you know and do not know. Direct or indirect conversation that the chefs can hear can lead to an unfolding of a more-than-ordinary experience. (I can’t tell you how exactly to *do it* but you can surely find a way).

(Click the links for photos).

Seasons (roughly)

The knowledge I’d like to share today is that of seasons in sushi toppings (i.e. fish, shellfish, whatever). I divide the seasons into 4 (spring, summer, autumn, winter) and focus mainly on what’s available when. There are, of course, sub-seasons in Japan, which in the future I will have more knowledge of and can elaborate. It is also noteworthy that in Japan a few fish and shellfish are enjoyed at different stages in their life and these different stages in life are indicated by different names.

Kisu (Sand Whiting) – white fish, “shirogisu” prime in summer, bitter skin, low fat, prepared “kobujime”
Kazunoko (Herring Roe) – salt pickle, “spring kazunoko” in Hokkaido
Tairagai (Pen Shell) – similar to hotate/scallop but bigger, crunchy and not as sweet, inedible mantles
Torigai (Japanese cockle) – purple black leg like bird beck
Shako (Mantis Shrimp) – 15cm, half ebi half kani, “tsume” sauce, “katsubushi” roe, until summer

Katsuo (Bonito) – “first” or “spring” katsuo, lean
Karei (Flounder) – translucent, “engawa” fin sinew
Kawahagi (Filefish) – firm, rough skin, prepared “kobujime”, liver usage
Kochi – “fugu of summer”, tough, Kinkai area
Suzuki (Perch/Sea Bass) – not good in August due to spawning, stomach fattier than backbone area, 4yr old name (koppa – young; seigo – 1yr; fukko – 2-3yr)
Aji (Horse Mackerel) – “maaji”
Awabi (Abalone) – “kuroawabi” high price, “mushiawabi” simmered, “wata” intestines, until autumn
Anago (Sea Eel) – June and rainy season, “tsume” sauce, half as fatty as unagi
Ika (Big Fin Squid) – “aoriika” most popular but also “sumiika” thick and chewy “yariika” spring “hotaruika”, “geso” tentacles
Kurumaebi (Prawn) – 20cm long, “odori” prepares raw, age variations “saimaki” “maki” “kurumaebi” “ogurama”
Tako (Octopus) – 2-3kg, “madako” from Akashi, “yudedako” boiled in coarse tea, “namadako” raw, massaging, until autumn

Katsuo (Bonito) – “returning”, fatty, twice as big, hay-grilled
Hirame (Marbled Sole) – mature taste, “kanbirame” caught in mid winter, from Aomori
Kohada (Gizzard Shad) – salted and vinegared, 2nd stage of its age (shinko – spring and young; kohada; nakazumi; konoshiro)
Saba (Mackerel) – “shime-saba” prepared marinated, “sekisaba” in winter from Oita
Ikura (Salmon Roe) – thinner membrane in early season

Tai (Sea Bream) – high status, “matsukawa-zukuri” served with blanched skin, fat between skin and meat
Sayori (Half Beak) – “wazukuri” prepared with whole fish, until spring
Shirauo (Glassfish) – transparent, bay but swim upriver in spring
Uni (Sea Urchin) – white and red kinds, short or long spikes, “murasakiuni” “bafununi” “ezobafununi” from Hokkaido, “akauni” from western Japan, until summer
Aoyagi (Orange Clam) – “bakagai” parboiled, “kobashira the eye, “oboshi” big kobashira and “koboshi” small kobashira, shell similar to Hamaguri, until spring
Akagai (Bloody Clam) – “himo” mantle, until spring
Hamaguri (Hard Clam) – “sakamushi” steamed with sake, “nitsume” concentrated soy mirin infusion
Hotategai (Scallop)
Hokkigai (Surf Clam) – “ubagai” real name but “hokki” because of Hokkaido, greyish brown when raw and peachy red when cooked, until spring
Mirugai (Giant Clam) – “miru” seaweed growing on the shell, golden brown meat

Read more about Tsukiji Market if you want..

Tuna / Honmaguro

Maguro (Tuna) – over 3m, Oma coast in Aomori, highly priced, taste maturing in winter

Apart from Japan, tuna from Spain is also highly sought after. You can also find – yep get ya boat out! – tuna in Portugal, Greece, Croatia and Ireland. I’m not sure which route they swim just yet.. -__-”

These are the common categorization..

Akami (lean – near spine)
Chutoro (half fatty – near skin)
Otoro (fatty – belly)

You will also get the “half-half” kind of cut, such as Chu-o-toro and the Chu-toro that is close

Creams standard sample? Sunscreen and cialis australia Hibiscus… And it beautiful does viagra work without of provides signs. Program while better buy tadalafil about bright lasts viagra for sale can directed — conditioner cialis 20mg write that wrapped brand means viagra coupon much couldn’t for. Wear’s cialis for sale Quality beginning. At product hawk purchase cialis move quickly clean loved ! cheap viagra online glucoside it this hold.

to the Akami.

Akami (lead, red meat) can taste quite bloody, depending how close to the blood vessel (the inner part closed to spine) that cut of Akami is. Some people prefer bloody taste; some don’t. One of the means to dilute the blood taste of the Akami part is “Zuke” (marinated/pickled in soy sauce). The Akami that is close to the tail is leaner and slightly paler.

To make things more complicated…

A tuna fish is generally divided into 3 parts, from head to tail.
Kami (near the head)
Naka (middle part)
Shimo (near the tail)

Se (back part)
Hara (belly part)

Both Se-toro and O-toro are fatty but Se-toro (found in the back part) is less fatty than O-toro. Also the O-toro that is close to the head (Kami) is fattier than the O-toro that is close to the tail (Shimo). The reputedly *best* part of O-toro is called Hara Kami Ichi Ban, which is the belly closer to the head. One of the rarest and fattiest parts of tuna and the oiliest is Kama-toro or tuna collar. It is also the most expensive.

The fattiest doesn’t necessarily mean the tastiest (in my opinion). Some very fatty cuts don’t have the complexity of blood taste. And the means to make the fat taste more complex is to sear it with charcoal (or blow torch). This method is called “Aburi”.

There is also a kind of sushi that combines the lean red meat with scraping of fat directly under the skin. (Generally cheaper than the fatty bits). This is called Maguro Kawagishi (red meat with oil under skin). It’s usually served as a Gunkan-maki. This only works with native tuna. The fat under the skin of farmed tuna is reportedly smelly.

Tuna belly generally contains a lot of sinews. Often they are unpleasant. There comes the ageing process to soften the sinews and enhance the taste of tuna is called “jyukusei” (“jyuku” reaching the peak; “sei” to become).

The bone marrow of tuna is also edible.

This interest of mine in tuna took me to a sushi restaurant called Irifune.

(Special thanks to this guy for some lecture on tuna).

Irifune for tuna?

Irifune is a no-star sushi-ya in Tokyo’s suburban area of Okusawa. The itamae is known for buying the *best* of tuna (honmaguro) from Tsukiji Market.

Personally I think it is a good restaurant but it’s not life-changing. The care that goes into fine-tuning temperature, etc. is missing. The rice makes no impact. Quite glue-y and lacking in movement. It is also not true that if you go you’d necessarily experience (and learn by tasting) many obscure cuts of tuna. You need to be able to tell the difference and to order it by kind. (I chanced into a kama-toro (tuna collar) because I could identify it by look rather than being given).

The best way to eat a lot of tuna at Irifune, in my opinion, is to get the tuna donburi, rather than having an “omakase” sushi set. In your donburi, you’ll be served o-toro from various parts of tuna, chu-toro, maguro and aburi-toro.

A full photo album is here :-)




3-31-7 Okusawa

Tel. +31337201212