Lust at first sight
Rough. The kitchen bar at 10 Greek Street was stunningly rough. I couldn’t take my eyes off it – that high metallic bar, white-tiled walls, wooden floor and a high conservatory-like roof. I could sit facing the busy brigade of young chefs in their rough-and-ready kitchen. No. I opted for one of the little metallic plank “bar table” that protruded from the walls. They each can only accommodate one dish at a time but can seat two diners. Sharing? Taking turns? The design was unconventional and somewhat kinky. Loved it. (But, if you don’t, there was a cozy minimalist dining room at the front). Relocating from Wapping Project, chef Cameron Emirali is, surely, used to characterful venues; and despite the recent surge in the bare design trend, the kitchen bar emerged uniquely hot.
And love at first bite
The menu was modern-British-meet-modern-European, St-John-hook-up-with-River-Cafe, .. my analogy can go on and on. The bar plates were happily priced between £3- £7; the starters between £5- £8; the mains £16- around £20; and the desserts £4- £5. Lamb Sweetbreads (£5) were served on a hill of velvety mash and finished with enticingly rich lamb jus. A simple recipe but superbly executed. The sweetbreads was correctly spongy and boast light crispy skin. The sprinkle of chopped chive provided slight herbal vibrancy to contrast. Also dainty was Potato Gnocchi, Wild Mushrooms and Truffle Oil (£7). The gnocchi – minimally gummy and oh-so-light-am-I-eating-marshmallow? – was sauteed along with an assortment of earthy mushrooms. A note of truffle oil to balance off the rustic-ness of the dish; parmesan grating added delectable nutty-ness and also peppery-ness from rocket leaves. The portion (you can opt for a bigger portion at £14) was generous. The main event of Scallops, Fennel and Cauliflower Puree (£17) was classically delicious. The springy scallops were perfectly seared for a crispy exterior and a melting creamy texture within; the puree was delicate but pronounced in cauliflower taste; the salad of rocket and shaved fennel left an appetisingly refreshing crunch. I finished my lunch off quickly with Pistachio Praline Ice Cream (£4). Milky. The crystalised praline segments oozed toffee sweetness and shattered wonderfully.
Simple food (almost your kinda neighbourhood restaurant) but fresh and so lively! Probably one of the most satisfying meals I’ve had in Soho for such a long time. Yes. I love 10 Greek Street, and it has made it into my top favourite Soho’s casual eateries along with Barrafina and Arbutus.
I’ll pop in again soon!!
GO FOR: Cool kitchen tables. Expertly done food.
INNOVATION/COMFORT: Great comfort!
10 GREEK STREET
10 Greek Street
Tel. 020 7734 4677