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MEATliquor: The Burger Wagon Stations off Marylebone

Permanently parked!

I love their sense of humour: London’s much lauded Meatwagon (subsequently reincarnated as #MEATEASY) found no better permanent location than at a car park, just behind Debenham’s, off Oxford Street. The collaborative brains behind MEATliquor Yianni Papoutsis and Scott Collins somehow kept the exterior of their famed burger shrine suspiciously banal.  Inside it was a different perspective of a heavily graffiti-ed, Texas-Chainsaw-Massacre-like enclave. You know, webs of dangling ceiling lights, blood-stained PVC strip curtains, but this nightmarish vision was disrupted by the presence of a well-stacked bar and no rendition of knives to diners.

Hands on eating

Cutlery was kept to absolute minimum at MEATliquor. My first tray of adulterated meat arrived sans knives, sans forks and sans plates. Deep Fried Pickles (£3) boast a crispy batter and crunchy, juicy gherkin slivers. Baffalo Wings with Blue Cheese Dip (£5) had a good tang but not so domineering heat. This was quickly followed by a bigger procession of meat. Dead Hippie (£7.50) was this Big-Mac-like burger (doubled patties, cheese, pickle, lettuce and onions). I found joy in the soft (lightly steamed?) bun; the patties (very good but not best) had a greasy moisture that ignited guilt but at the same time made me cry for a root beer float (£4). Philly Cheesesteak (£8) was a little healthier (just). I liked the distinct flavour of sauteed peppers and onions that nicely enhanced the shaved steak. Chilli Dog (£8) and Chilli Cheese Fries (£5) were antitheses of detox. For the former, an intensely smoky beef sausage was well doused in stringy cheese and finished with a good handful of jalapenos. Likable but impossible to gulp down a whole one. For the latter, the hot dog was replaced by a tub of proper fries. After a few mouthfuls, I (and The Other Bib) felt calorifically devastated…..

….

..

This did not stop us from ordering a Key Lime Pie (£4), which was citrus-y, velvety and very moreish.

Warnings

Gloriously and deliciously guilt-ridden food aside, I’d like to point out MEATliquor is not exactly my kind of food or restaurant.

re Food.. The food at MEATliquor is your expertly done “dirty” burgers and snacks. it is almost nostalgic food for those having grown up with burgers and a lot of cheese. I didn’t; I am in favour of a cleaner taste of burgers at Goodman’s or Hawksmoor.

re Restaurant.. MEATliquor runs not only a “No reservation” policy but also a “you have to queue even when your friends have a table inside” policy, both of which I think are reasonable. That said, due to its popularity, the restaurant is mostly packed and gathers long queues. This can, though not necessarily, result in inconsistency and very slow service.

But, for what it’s worth, I enjoyed my meal at ML during its quiet hours. And this is how much I ate…

B.
E.
F.
O.
R.
E

A.
N.
D.

A.
F.
T.
E.
R.

!!!

 

(now where’s the diet pill?)

 

GO FOR: Grease. Cheese. Meat. And cocktail.
RATING: 4/5

(read about new rating here)

MEATliquor

74 Welbeck Street
London
W1G 0BA

Tel. 020 7224 4239

www.meatliquor.com
MEATliquor on Urbanspoon

6 Comments

  1. Ziu

    I absolutely loved the #Meatweasy so went in with really high hopes which were smashed to bits. The queue is long but even when you’re inside it takes ages for a waitress to even acknowledge your existence. Generally, you’d guess they’ve opened a day ago as the waiting staff seem to spend most of the time running around empty handed and arguing among themselves.
    The food did not fare any better, The chili burger was OK, but my dead hippie was terrible: bland patties, soggy bread, the overriding and ONLY flavor – yucky grease. The buffalo wings and cocktails were the only saving grace of the experience but i wont be coming back. Its all style over subsistence and quantity over quality. No thanks. I’d rather go back to Pitt Cue Co whenever in need of a quick meat fix.
    (i’m amazed you’ve managed to take pictures, I can now see what my food looked like!)

    • theskinnybib

      Hi Ziu,

      I am very sorry to hear about your horrific experience at ML. To be honest, before I went, I feared the same would happen to me, too. This led me to chose to go at very quiet hours of early Sat lunch; ML was relatively empty and the food turned out well. That said, not everyone will have the opportunities to be there off-peak. I really hope ML will find the system to cope with high demands (both food and service). After all they have gathered so many enthusiastic followers from #MEATEASY including yourself. It would have been such a shame to lose them.

      I love PCC. It’s all meat without unnecessary grease :-9

      PS I tried to find a spot with good lighting. I agree it’s too dark inside, especially for day time.

    • SP

      I completely agree…how does a burger joint make such poor burgers?? Wings and cocktails were only saving grace but won’t be visiting again. Same experience when it was meateasy btw.

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