Viajante: The Traveller with His Star

Viajante by Nuno Mendes has not changed much since my first visit half a year or so ago. The abstract art deco was still sleek; the Front of House still chic; and the brigade of talented chefs were all there. The only difference, it seemed, was Viajante’s newly acquired a Michelin star. But, let’s admit. That little red thing did not come as a surprise.

And there I was, sitting in a slightly bigger table and initiating my guest to London’s progressive food scene. The usual things to kick the meal off were Thai Explosion II – coconut curry chicken mousse sandwiched by thin and crispy wafers – and the bread with brown butter and black pudding mousse. All’s good, yet it was evident the innovative pomp of amuse bouche was trimmed down a little at lunch hours. You’d get more at dinner.

The first course of Squid and Ink of Pickled Radishes and Sea Lettuce was beautifully presented. The Tagliatelle-like squid sashimi was springy and fresh. There was a nice richness of the sea from the ink, while the pickled radishes added flavours not remote to that of Asian delicacies. Personally, I would have liked fewer celery leaves as they overpowered the mild flavours of the dish. The second course of Salsify in Milk with Brown Butter and Truffle was, say, a one-ingredient-too-many sort of dish. The salsify was perfectly cooked and served in a chilled beef consommé. One bite in, there was this hint of bitterness from the salsify and the bark garnish. I was reminded of an old recipe for Chinese herbal medicine. Delectable but at the same time, I’d say, “Chacun a son gout”. The grain of crispy chicken skin, though adding a lot of praline-like crunch, was a little sandy on the tongue. The truffle, which should have added a touch of earthy aroma, did not do much in this dish. ‘Tis a pity.

The Duck Heart with Celeriac and Pine also verged on being a little too bitter. The pink heart on a bed of crushed nuts and green pine needle jus looked exquisitely artistic. The meatiness here went well with a hint of bitterness from the jus and the celeriac. The soft tongue provided contrast in texture. That said, it was totally outshone by what followed: Lobster, Potato, Confit Egg Yolk and Saffron. Creamy, delectably sweet and savoury! The lobster medallions were perfectly poached; the roe on top was dehydrated and oozed out marvellous aroma. The saffron infused milk jus, coupled with the split confit yolk became the best egg-y cream base I’d ever come across in years. It was just really good.

The parade of savoury dishes concluded with this Lamb Saddle and Belly, Wild Garlic and Cereals. It was the second best. I still had the wholesome awesomeness of the lobster in my mouth. The lamb, served still pink and walking, was lean and moist. The belly provided a contrast in its mellow fattiness. The aroma of garlic permeated the air, while the cereals of many kinds – pearl barley, I noticed? – added varying degrees of crunch though half way through this dish I must say this generous dose of cereal would do no good to people with dentures.

Then came the Shiso Ice, Panna Cotta Ice Cream and Apple – the palate cleanser that always put a big grin on my face. And, oh wait, there was this Parsnip and Milk dessert, which took me back to the mashed potatoes with ice cream I had at L’Astrance but Nuno’s dish fared much better. The two textured parsnips, as puree and poached cubes, came with mild vanilla ice cream, dried black olive powder and Belgian beer tapioca. Lots and lots of texture and the combination of flavours that did not jar one bit! This went down amazingly with the glass of caramel-like Marion Passito Bianco 2002, Veneto. The petit four followed and the rest was just a waking dream (meaning that I was totally wasted by the wine and my guest kindly offered to take care of the bill)…

I heart this (now back to my senses).

And I heart Viajante….

‘Cause?

Not just ‘cause.

Among all the restaurants with the stellar achievement last year, Viajante, I’d vouch, is probably the true breath of fresh air. Despite its many hits and few misses during my lunch, the place has potential to, say, get two Michelin stars?

Not next year but in a couple more years.

Let’s see…..  

Enough said,

My head rating says, “8 out of 10″.

My heart rating says, “8 out of 10″.

VIAJANTE

Patriot Square
Bethnal Green
London
E2 9NF

Tel. 020 7871 0461

www.viajante.co.uk