Opera Tavern: Small Treats in Covent Garden

The Tavern..

Updated 22 October 2011

Opera Tavern has, since its opening, progressed so much and I felt the urgency to re-write it up.

This – if you do not know – is a historical-pub-turned-wine-bar-and-restaurant that marries off fine dining with elegant casualness. The result is a space full of character. The downstairs bar-dining is more casual and than the restaurant setup upstairs. Awesomely hip and friendly Front of House makes this place electrifying, especially when night falls. The only unbearably awful fact is that this terrific venue shares the street with Shrek the Musical…’nuff said!

Spain, with a bit of Italy

The menu at Opera Tavern is indeterminate. It boasts a bit of Spanish origin with a hint of Italian and British pub nibbles. Its merit, however, lies in distinctive gastronomic metamorphoses of Iberico pork into such dishes as Jamon Iberico de Bellota, burgers, Cod Roasted in Iberico Fat, etc. That said, Opera Tavern isn’t cheap. The price of these smaller-than-a-starter dishes can mount up to £12.50, though the average is around £7-9 each. To make the most of my experience and money, I need both stunner and filler dishes (if you know what I mean).

A tub of lightly salted Iberico Pig’s Ears (£3) proved a fantastically crunchy nibble, while juicy Padron Peppers (£4.25) never failed to disappoint. Game-y venison skewers (£3.50 each) arrived on a bed of beetroot puree. Pleasantly charred, though the flavour combo wasn’t as bold as I had hoped. My preference went to Octopus and Chorizo Skewer (£3.95) for its texture and flavour contrast of piquant sausage and delectably rubbery squid. The pomegranate & green tomato dressing slapped it up with saliva-induced acidity, when the finely diced cucumber instantaneously refreshed my palate. Bread with Olive Oil or Aliolo (£2.55) could do with a bigger selection.

Pan Seared Scallop (£4.50 each) had its topping changed fairly regularly. Not the biggest scallops you’d get but always nicely done. The one below came with crispy Iberico ham and pea puree (if I am not plagued by amnesia). There was also depth from porky salty-ness, curd-y pea puree and crispy parmesan sand.  As for Italian Style Scotch Egg (£3.95), I wasn’t so sure what’s so Italian about it but it kept winning me over with the heavenly soft boiled egg! The Alioli garnish maximised the sublime velvety-ness of the dish. It boast, also, a fine balance between meat and golden, crumbed skin. Confit Pork Belly with Cannellini Beans (£6.95) was decent but lacked a wow factor. The wonderfully crisp-ed skin burst as I was sawing my knife through, but the pairing of rosemary scented beans only made the dish two dimensional.

The burger – Mini Iberico Pork and Foie Gras Burger (£5.95) – was what not to be missed. Predominantly sweet, this masterly burger was tightly packed with complex flavours. The foie wasn’t just a gimmicky slap of some thinly-sliced sheets (as most restaurants do) but blended exuberantly with the moreish pork, while the layering of milky mayo and the glistening caramelised red onions injected decadent richness to the burger. I also loved the pickled chilli on the side. That acidity was just what this burger needed.

Arghhh!!!

On other occasions I had superb Chargrilled Chicken with Butternut Squash and Pistachio (£6.50/ comforting with a nutty twist), Roasted Cod in Iberico Fat with Calasparra Rice & Smoked Paprika (£8.25/ very well done “fine dining” dish) and Grilled Iberico Pressa with Capers, Shallots & Lemon (£8.25/ perfectly cooked pressa and the jus had pickle-y richness), all of which I am happy to recommend. Cured meat, there, is always great value for money.

Enough said,

My head rating says, “8 out of 10″.

My heart rating says, “8 out of 10″.

OPERA TAVERN

23 Catherine Street
London
WC2B 5JS

Tel. 020 7836 3680