Where should I start? The Savoy Grill is only fully booked until early January? Where should I start? Ramsay was there but disappeared by the time we finished our meal? Where should I start? The red art deco decor did not look as aggressive as shown on the website? Where shall I start? The renovated Savoy Hotel made the Dorchester look like some obscure shopping arcade in Mayfair? But, I suppose I should start by saying that my other bib and I thoroughly enjoyed the meal at the newly reopened Savoy Grill?
Yes, we did.
What’s it like there NOW?
It’s British with European influences, I’d say. The menu was not complicated: no firework, but more of pie-work and the grill. Price-wise, you’d probably be looking to pay the same for a three-course with a bottle of wine at Hawksmoor or The Wolseley. When the bill arrived yesterday, it was rather astonishing. I ordered a £65 bottle of Bordeaux and with that included our meal at the Savoy Grill was still almost £40 cheaper than Hakkasan Mayfair.
Sorry, people, there won’t be many photos in this post due to inadequate lighting in the dining room. I’ll just attempt to round-up my meal. My other bib went for Baked Hereford Snails with Parsnip Root Puree, Shallot Suace, Brioche Crumb. The snails, perfectly cooked and bouncing in the mouth, was served layered on the puree and the sauce and topped by the crispy crumbs. I had the Baked Egg Cocotte, Smoked Bacons, Wild Mushrooms, Red Wine Sauce, served in a pretty jar with soldiers. It was scrumptious. The egg yolk was cooked and bordered on being jelly-like rather than runny. The sauce with mushrooms and bacons was rich and deep.
For the main, my other bib ordered the Red Wine Braised Beef Shoulder and Roasted Fillet with Creamed Wild Mushrooms and kindly gave me one forkful. I tried the shoulder and it was just so tender it flaked on the very first bite. The combination was traditional but tasted like food you could come back for everyday. For myself, I had Mutton, Carrot and Turnip Pie with Worcestershire Sauce. This was a refined version of a Shepherd’s Pie. Also the cooked to dissolve mutton that soaked all the goodness of the finely grated vegetable roots was to die for–who says mutton is always tough? I tucked into this little circle, toppled with slightly grainy mashed and oven-baked for the crusty top. The Worcestershire based sauce was intense and heart warming.
The photo was really bad, wasn’t it? I could have booked for lunch instead! And, desserts? My other bib’s Steamed Cinnamon Pudding was gorgeous, bursting with spice and balanced off by the light custard. My Rum Baba with Citrus Fruits and Jersey Cream was ok. There was not enough rum, no trace of orange jam on the skin of the Baba, even if there were slices of fruit on the side and candied orange rinds on top, I still found the sweetness to be inadequate. There were good things about it, too. The baba was spongey enough–but a lot drier than Ducasse’s–and the Jersey Cream was lush. To be honest, comparing this to my prior Baba experience at Ramsay’s Royal Hospital Road, I much prefered the one at the Savoy Grill.
All in all, a very pleasant meal, and we could see the Savoy Grill to be doing so commercially well. Before I finished this post, we were impressed Ramsay spent a lot of time in the kitchen at Savoy, rather than just walked around greeting guests. He won my heart back <3
My head rating says, “8 out of 10″.
My heart rating says, “6 out of 10″.
Tel. 020 7592 1600