For name’s sake..
The French writes, “Pouchkine;” the English, “Pushkin”.
Whichever is correct, I don’t really care…
When I saw what’s on display at this new, phenomenal Russian import to the Parisian patisserie scene, I didn’t give a damned thought on how one should transcribe the name of the greatest Russian poet Alexander “Pushkin.”
Quite a few people associates Russia with its Siberian cold, its poverty (among the people), its mafia (also among its people) and, of course, its gastronomic barbarism. Guess what, they’re not totally wrong. Yet, there is still this very luxurious side of Russia: the Caspian sea from which our Beluga, Servruga and Osetra are harvested, a handful of orgasmic restaurant institutions that make themselves seen on the San Pellegrino list, and, surely, there is Cafe Pouchkine/ Pushkin, overseen by world-renown (French) patisserie chef Emmanuel Ryon.
To make this more exciting, CP at Printemps is the first ever franchise of Russia’s confectionery luxuries that reaches out to the world!
Situated on the ground floor of Printemps Mode on Boulevard Haussmann, Paris’s Pouchkine, unlike at its Moscow outpost, forbids photography. (Yikes). To make up for this I was visually sedated by the sight of cakes!!! Big ones, little ones, macaroons, and small, savoury pies…
Unlike most Parisian patisseries, CP offered bar seats of no more than 12. We started with Pirojkis, which are Russian puff pastries served warm. We went for mushrooms and meat. Unlike French puff pastries, the Russian version was light, like chewing on some soft packet of bread with a touch of sweetness and packed tightly with minimally seasoned meat.
Then I ordered this very pretty and delicious Roule Moskito, a rolled sponge cake. My other bib got himself a wonderful Paris Moscou, which was a chou cream with caramel crunches. I stole a bite and it was sublime. We went for very chilled Kvass, traditional Russian fermented bread drink, for drinks.
What were they?
Macaroons!! Very light meringue caps. I also found the flavourings to be playful. Say, you could opt for Lemon with Caramel, or Caramel with Lemon, meaning lemon was the main flavour in the former and caramel the main ingredient for the latter. There were interesting flavour combinations such as Cherry Pistachio (and vice versa) or Cinnamon with Green Tea. The pieces were massive, too!
I also had this Feijoa Lait Aman, which I thought was a form of panna cotta with rhubarb on crunchy biscuit base, and the Safari, a very dark chocolate cake judging by the look of it. As it still sits in my fridge, I don’t know what it tastes like just yet.
Enough said ….
My head rating says, “8 out of 10″.
My heart rating says, “9 out of 10″.
Tel. +33 1 42 82 43 31
NOTE: Do not over-order as the bill can become seriously hefty.